Dog Shoes - Not Just A Fashion Accessory But A Canine Necessity

In the past few years, there is no question that the revolution of stylish dog shoes and boots has hit the market. From Hound Hiker Boots to FouMa Dog Sneakers, having your pet in some type of "paw" protection is not only fashionable, but certainly functional. Although some people may think it's down right silly, owners, especially to little breed dogs, are now thinking "outside" the box and realizing that dog shoes aren't just a fashion accessory to an outfit, but simply a necessity!

Little breeds, especially, have tiny, soft paws. Because many of these dogs are constantly carried in fashionable pet carriers or held in the arms of the owner when out in the public, they are not exposing their paw pads to the elements of the outside world (hard, rough surfaces) as much as a bigger dog may. Therefore, their pads do not harden as much. Consequently, when a little tiny dog is finally walked freely on concrete, asphalt, etc... their paws can become quite sensitive, especially if the surface is too hot or too cold. Black asphalt, for instance, is very hot to the touch in humid weather. Ever try walking barefoot on it in the summer yourself? The same applies to small dogs that have very soft pads on their feet. Moreover, if an owner is not closely monitoring the conditions of a walkway, fine, sharp pieces of debris, glass or even ice salt can become quite hazard to these little, soft pads as well.

Because designers are always trying to follow the trends of the fashion world, it is not uncommon to see stylish protective shoes that match outfits in their collections as well now. Just ask Lara Alameddine, owner of Little Lily and pet fashion designer to the celebrities. Actually, Lara founded her business in 2002 while walking the streets of West Hollywood with her 5 lb Yorkie who accidentally stepped on a shard of glass. With the recommendation of her vet to seek out shoes for "Lily", she was unhappy of what she was finding in her local pet stores. Therefore, with some careful planning and creative design work, she developed the first fashionable, but protective booties for dogs in the USA and trademarked the name LilyBoots. With dog shoes came dog clothing and that's when the story of Little Lily began.

For a pet to walk in shoes, it is certainly not in their nature to do so. Therefore, if you have never tried placing shoes on your pet's feet, it will require some training and patience on your part in order for your pet to get adjusted and walk perfectly normal in them. Usually, it can take as little as a few hours to a few days of an adjustment period; depending on your pet's personality and level of tolerance. Simply having a pet wear them for short periods of time and gradually increasing the wear time in them will have your pet strutting its stuff in no time; even if it's not on a fashion runway in Hollywood!

A Sprinke A Day Can Take The Stains Away!

For any of you pet owners who own a light colored or white "face" dog, you know first hand how difficult it can be to keep those awful, unsightly tear stains away! Whether the stains are reddish to brownish in color, a beautiful white or light colored dog can simply look "dirty", even after a professional grooming visit. Fortunately for darker color coated dogs, you will never have the opportunity to see them.

For decades, pet owners resorted to stain eliminating liquids and gels only to find them not effective. At times, these solutions also caused irritation to the dog's eyes which in turn, caused the eyes to tear even more. It was not until a few years ago that Angels' Eyes, a product made by the I'm a Little Teacup Company, proved that "a sprinkle a day, can take those tear stains away" - and literally! Now, it's one of the world's best known little secrets to keeping a light colored dog stain free!

Angels’ Eyes works to prevent tear staining by tying up circulating porphyrins. A porphyrin is a compound that reacts with light to produce a reddish brown stain to the medial canthus. The ingredients, 100%Pure beef liver and tylosin (as tartrate), will rid and prevent your dog from contracting Ptyrosporin (Red Yeast) and bacterial infections which causes excess tearing and staining. What makes Angels' Eyes different than other anti-tear staining products on the market is that other brands mask or have artificial food coloring, artificial food additives/preservatives, and cereals such as wheat causing the stains to reappear worse than before. Because Angels' Eyes is given orally in the pet's food, it does not require rubbing or any other difficult maintenance. With this product, you will not need to use any bleach, peroxide or any other product that may cause allergies and irritations.

Now, many factors contribute to tear staining. Pets could inherit very small tear ducts or overly watery eyes, particularly as a response to various products you may be giving to the dog (allergies or reactions) or even household chemicals you may be using. Definitely inherited are large eyes and short muzzles, which tend to allow more eye irritation and less drainage. There can be inherited or developmental structural defects that result in eye stains as well. Hygiene is another obvious factor. Matter in the eye tends to collect at the inner corner. If the pet’s eyes are exposed to dust, wind, grooming products, stray or ingrown hairs and other irritants, there will be more matter at the corners. This matter becomes an irritant and causes more tearing and therefore more staining. Therefore, it is essential to keep on top of a proper hygienic routine with your pet as well.

Angels' Eyes is 100% safe for pets and can be given as early as 8 weeks of age. Depending on the pet's size, a small sprinkle in the pet's food once a day does the trick. Treatment is given until results are achieved which usually is between 3-6 weeks; depending on how bad the pet has staining. Because there has been reports of pets not freely eating their regular food with the treatment of Angels' Eyes, the perfect remedy is peanut butter! Simply dip your finger in a jar of peanut butter (which all dogs love) and then dip your finger again in the Angels Eyes to allow the powder mixture to stick to your finger. With the aroma of creamy peanut butter, I never have seen a dog refuse this tasty treat!

Here are some other suggestions to keeping your pet's face stain free:

• Feed your pet a white meat diet. This includes chicken, turkey or fish. Dark meats can contribute to your dog getting darker staining around the eyes and mouth.


• Stay away from treats that contain food coloring, sugars or wheat as an additive.


• Wipe your pet's face daily with a clean, warm cloth.

PLEASE NOTE: Should your pet have noticeable reddish staining on it's paws, legs, etc.. this is caused by your pet's excessive self-grooming practices (i.e. licking it's feet constantly). Because a pet's saliva is also a bodily fluid, saliva also contains this active red yeast enzyme and as such, is just being transferred to the pet's coat when it's cleaning itself. Therefore, the use of Angels' Eyes may help eliminate stains from getting darker as it will rid and control the body of an excessive red yeast overgrowth.

To purchase Angels' Eyes, please Click Here. One month and four month supply treatments are available.

Protecting Your Pet & Pocketbook With Pet Insurance

One of the most crucial responsibilities of pet ownership is the financial liability you will face throughout that pet's lifetime. Between the necessities of food, supplies, and routine medical care, it's however the unforeseen emergency care visits to the vet that can hurt any pet owner's pockets.

There is no doubt that a loved pet's life is priceless. I, for one, have never thought twice when faced with a huge vet bill to keep any of my pets’ healthier, but most importantly, alive! However, I have seen owners fall financially in debt, especially when they own a chronically ill pet. Worst yet, its heart wrenching and sad, to both pet and owner, when they are forced to surrender the pet because they just could not afford the high expenses that are associated with the necessary medical care. Although no one can predict when you will face such an incident, you can, however, prepare and protect yourself should an emergency happen.

For decades, pet health insurance has existed but it is not until recent years that an insurance policy on our furry loved ones has become more common and part of the list of necessities of responsible pet ownership. With more and more pets becoming chronically ill due to minor aliments such as chronic allergies to genetic diseases due to poor breeding and/or unhealthy diets, it's also the unforeseen accidents that makes you wish you had an existing health care policy on your pet should you not have one.

Getting health insurance on your pet is quite easy. Most pet insurance companies can quote you the monthly premium via online by just answering a few simple questions such as the age of your pet, breed type, what state you live in and whether your pet has been diagnosed with any major health issues in the last few months. The hard part is possibility getting rejected or paying an astronomical monthly insurance premium because you opted to get insurance on a pet that is routinely seeing a vet for a chronic and expensive medical issue already. This is why it is crucial to research and obtain pet insurance either when your pet is a puppy or a healthy adult before any unforeseen medical issues arise. Moreover, if you have purchased a registered AKC dog with papers, the American Kennel Club offers discounted insurance rates for their registered pets.

Now, it is a fact that certain breeds will have higher premiums based solely on the bloodline and the age of your pet when you try to obtain insurance. Boxers, for example, are known for acquiring certain types of cancers, even in their early years while short nosed, pushed in face breeds may experience chronic breathing problems when they start to mature as well. Most purebreds each have their own statistically known medical issues, so depending on the breed you have; pet insurance companies will base your premium solely on the type of dog and age of your pet. Good news is, if you have multiple pets, insurance companies will commonly offer discounted rates should you insure your other pets on a policy.

So, what are exactly the benefits of pet health insurance? Well, depending on the policy you choose, all companies offer basic routine vaccination plans to more elaborate, full protection policies that will cover your pet for almost anything. This usually includes emergency accidental treatments, spay/neuter, routine teeth cleanings and even chemotherapy treatments should your pet acquire cancer (which seems to be more frequent in pets now a days).

Here is a brief overview of pet health insurance....

• If you have been quoted a policy premium of $30 a month, over a year’s time, you will spend $360 for insurance. Tally up all the cost of your pet's medical expenses for the past 12 months. Should you fall short of your yearly premium or even over it, the good news is, now matter what number you came up with, you will receive approximately 80% of all your medical costs back on each vet visit.


• Most pet health insurance companies will allow you to use any vet you wish as you will be up fronting all costs to the vet at the time of treatment. It is then your responsibility to submit a claim with your carrier after treatment.


• Most policies have a annual deductible which is $100-$125


• Reimbursements usually take 30-45 days; depending on the health insurance carrier. Also, policies can have maximum limits of $1500 - $13,000 yearly.


• Other commonly covered treatments include specialist visits, x-rays, CT Scans, MRI's, prescription medications, hospitalization, and laboratory testing.


• Wellness plans usually cover heartworm testing and preventative treatments and flea and tick control.

Here is a complete list of other commonly known pet health insurance providers:

VPI
AKC
Pets Best
ASPCA Pet Insurance
Embrace
Pets Health Plan

There is no question that when having a pet health insurance policy, it's not only a return investment back in your pockets, but your pet will be medically covered for each visit to the vet.

For The Working Class Canine - Dog Modeling

Can your pet be the next top "pup" model? Perhaps so - just ask Little Paris Noel! No matter what kind of breed you have, any dog can be a model with the right basic training, some photography knowledge of the owner, and of course, a bit of luck. If you feel your pet has what it takes, here is a great hobby for any owner to potentially make some extra money to offset the cost of owning your pet and it's high maintenance needs or simply just receiving some free pet products. Hey, who said your pet can't have its own bank account?

Many pet manufacturers, designers and pet retailers will actually, at times, utilize their customers for marketing material that they will use to sell new and upcoming products. This can be on printed material (brochures/catalogs/magazines) and/or on the World Wide Web (internet). So, if your pet is especially photogenic and knows basic commands as sit, stay and down, here are some suggestions on how to start a potential modeling career for your canine child:

• Get yourself a good digital camera and know how to operate it to its potential! Being your pup's manager will require you to start a "pupfolio" and know some basic photography skills.


• Get yourself a backdrop! All professional photographers use backdrops on occasion. These are usually on large rolls and may be of a paper or fabric material. However, when taking photos of your pet for a portfolio, use a white backdrop! If your pet is all white in color, use a lighter shade of gray to offset the color difference between your pup's fur/hair and the backdrop color. Do not use "scenic" backdrops as the main focus of the photo should be of your pet and nothing else in the background.


• Backdrops should be hung at least two feet above your pet's head (either in the sit or down position) and cascaded along the floor. This means there should be no seams or creases in the backdrop.


• Put yourself in or get good lighting! All photographers will use natural lighting or use spot lights behind and on the side of them to give the photo the true and vivid colors of the snap shot. Do not rely on the sole use of your camera’s flash.


• Photos of your pet should be taken with and without merchandise. Small props can be used for creativity.


• Make sure any of the photos you use for your pup's portfolio are clear. Blurry images should never be sent!


• Photos of your dog sitting or laying down are best.


• If you are trying to land a modeling job with a particular designer or manufacturer, purchase some of their products (only) for your photo shoot.


• Purchase or download a good photo software package. This will be required to help rid of "red eye" or any little imperfections your photos may have.


• Pick your BEST vivid photos to send.


• Set your price! Because many designers or manufacturers are busy with the design and production of products and may want to off set the high costs of a real, professional photographer, set your price for you and your pup's time. A good starting point, especially for an amateur model and pup manager would be $15-$20 per photo that is agreed to be used or equivalent to free pet products from that particular company.


• For more information on photographing your pet, please visit The Guide To Photographing Your Dog

Okay, now that you have gotten basic information on what is needed to get started; here is some additional details to help you market your pup to the pet industry:

PORTFOILO BY DIRECT MAIL

• If you have printed the images from your camera on photo paper, put them together with a basic informational sheet about your pup. This should include: your pet's name, breed, age, weight, size measurements (neck, length, and girth), some fun and interesting information about your pup's personality and lastly, all your contact information. Put this together in a nice folder as if you were putting together a marketing pamphlet. Make up as many as you plan on sending to each company.


• Be creative with your portfolio! Remember, first impressions count!


• Because you can relatively find out all contact information about any company on the internet, search by the company's name to find out their physical address so you can send out your pup's portfolio to them. Should no particular owner or president's name be mentioned, the safest way is to attention the package is to the "owner".


• Follow up with a phone call to the company within 1-2 weeks to make sure they have received your package and to see if they have any questions about your service.

PORTFOLIO BY EMAIL

• Save your pup's photos as a "jpg" image and do not send any photos larger than 600 x 600 pixels in size. Additionally, do not send more than three at a time. Sending multiple images, especially photos too large in size by email, may not reach the recipient's email inbox as their server can reject your email as "spam". Also, images that are in the approximate size range of 600 x 600 will display nicely on any size viewer's monitor.


• Attach your pup's informational sheet as a word document (doc.) file, as well.


• If you are computer savvy, convert both the photos and doc. file as a "pdf." attachment.


• Search the internet for the company's website to retrieve their email address and put in the subject line: Dog Model for Hire


• Include a simple but informative note in the body of the email so the recipient knows a little bit about you and your service.


• Follow up with a phone call to the company within 1-2 weeks to make sure they have received your email and to see if they have any questions about your service.

WEBSITE PORTFOLIO
What you can further do to get you and your pup's services exposed is to create a website! This is the BEST way to reach millions of potential companies that may need to utilize your service. Yahoo Small Business or GoDaddy.com offers economical website service plans that can cost pennies a day plus offers simple, but yet effective, user friendly website design capabilities. You can also use this valuable internet tool to keep your pup's portfolio current and list all past clients once your pup becomes established with modeling jobs. You can further expand your services by offering "royalty free" images for sale! This means these are images that are not contracted and owned by a specific company. Just note that it is recommended to "watermark" your images to prevent unlawful copying of your images without your consent or being paid for. Pet retail or boutique shops may find these images useful for their own personal marketing campaigns or simply using them on their online stores!

BUSINESS CARDS
Having business cards are a simple but effective way to spread the word about your service! You can simply create and receive 250 free business cards by using Vista Print. It is a perfect marketing tool just in case you happen to meet other pet related companies that can potentially use your pup as a model through passing in public places.

Now, after you have sent your pup's portfolio out to either a few companies or established an internet presence, don't get discouraged should no one call you. Sometimes it can take a manufacturer or designer weeks or months to decide what they will be doing on their next marketing campaigns. Also, to further expose your pet's modeling service, don't be shy to also send their portfolio to pet retailers or pet boutiques, especially if they have an online store! Just remember the key is to stay patient and focused; as with any model does looking to land a job!

YOUR FIRST MODELING JOB! WHAT'S NEXT?
Now that your pet has landed its first modeling job, you or the company (or both) may sign a contract to agree to each others terms and conditions of using your photographs in marketing materials. This may include the company that is seeking your service to own the rights to specific photos of yours. This technically means, they will be the only ones allowed to use that photo and you will not be able to sell it to anyone else. Other contract terms may be sending all products back to them once the photos have been taken; should they decide to pay you by check instead. You may also find that certain companies will want you to sign a confidentiality agreement.

Manufacturers or designers will send you a package of new products that they will be selling on the market shortly and it will be up to you as your pet's manager to take the most professional photographs of your pet with them. Because this should be treated as a business (and if you want repeat business), have the modeling contract completed within a few days and only present your best shots. Do not wait weeks to finish the project. Designers are on deadlines to have their marketing materials completed by certain times for publication.

Depending on your agreement with the company, your pup's pay to the modeling job may be keeping all the products they sent to you for your pups personal own enjoyment (and for free!) or you sending them all back in return of a check for the photos they will use. Again, this will all depend on your agreement with the company.

OTHER POTENTIAL PET CAREERS
You can further explore other pet careers by enlisting your pet with a pet (casting) agent should you feel your pet has what it takes to be on television. Here are some starting points to research: (PLEASE NOTE: We do not endorse any of the mentioned companies below. It is up to you to find out all the details and if any, costs involved. Should an agency seek a lot of upfront costs out of your pocket to find your pet work, it is not suggested to use them as it may be a scam.)

Animal Actors Agency
Dog Actors Guild
Animal Actors
Hollywood Paws

Kids & Pets - Living Happy & Safe Together

Being involved in rescue for many years, it is astounding and sad when I see perfect and happy puppies/adult dogs surrendered because of one bad choice the pet made one day - they bit or nipped at a child. Although it's human nature to rid oneself of a "bad" thing in the home where you should feel most secure and safe, however, I question whether this is a fair determination to actually surrendering a pet solely on the grounds of one "nip".

I have personally heard every reason and excuse why a pet has landed itself in a shelter or rescue program and one, in particular, that really upsets me is when the owner reports that their dog has either became aggressive or has actually "nipped" their child and now has labeled that dog as a "biter". Certainly it is understandable that any parent should and want to protect their child(ren) from harm but the key underlying question is: why did that pet do that in the first place? Although some people may find that one "nip" is enough to surrender a pet, I always wonder if the pet is really getting a fair "shake" when a parent was actually not in the room to witness such an attack. I further speculate whether at any time, prior to the child being attacked, whether the owner spent any time with that pet to acclimate it with young children to begin with? So, the real question is -Is the child the actual victim or is the pet?

Now, it may be possible that some personality traits in certain breeds may have them susceptible of being "nippy"; however, I am a firm believer it's the way you care and handle your pet, especially right from the start. A responsible owner will not only provide a lot of love, but proper, continuous and positive training to ensure the pet respect all humans, big and small. Same goes for raising and teaching children that are around pets.

There is no question that when you mix young children and pets together, BOTH need to learn respect of one another. An animal is an animal and although not as intelligent as a human, a pet does know when to defend itself. Young children, specifically, can have a tendency to pull ears, tails, and even hit pets. A parent should never allow or easily dismiss this behavior. Because young children do not know what's right from wrong or consequences of their behavior until later in life, to a pet that may be tormented by such a child, is usually why and when a pet may "nip". Basically, it's a dog's way of saying "leave me alone - I don't want to be bothered". Because a dog can not voice their feelings, they will act out their feelings and it’s up to the owner to know and see the signs or signals of a pet feeling uncomfortable or threatened to avoid such conflicts or harm.

Since some owners do not see it this way and immediately want the pet out of the home, in reality, this is not the pet's fault all the time, but actually the owner's (or previous owner should you have just adopted a dog and have no history on it at all). Although many reliable shelters and rescues will disclose to adopting pet owners whether a dog has the ability and patience to live with a child, sometimes it's not. It's up to the current owner to frequently provide positive training sessions with their dog. Same goes for when a pet shows signs of aggressiveness toward other humans when people are around the pet's owner. Dogs may become jealous and/or territorial and when signs of this happen, it is highly suggested to consult with a trainer or behaviorist. Unfortunately, some owners who do not like this behavior may in fact, be reinforcing it unknowingly. Pets should be of sound mind when children are present or at the very least, supervised very closely.

Here are some behavioral tests and further suggestions to helping pets and children coincide together in a safe and happy manner, especially for expecting parents:

• If you have a pet that has been living with you first, start taking steps to have that pet get familiar with having things that a young child will do eventually. This includes putting your hands in the dog's food or water, on occasion, when the dog is eating to see if there is any food aggression issues. Same applies to when a dog has toys and treats near him/her.


• Teach your dog to play "nice". Do not reinforce any aggressive or playing behavior with the dog and his/her toys.


• While your dog is eating, pet your dog on the head, backside and pull gentle on the dog's tail or ears to see if there is any reaction to this. If the dog continues to eat without any issues, this is a good sign of being tolerant to you being in its space. Any growling or negative behavior should be consulted with a licensed trainer.


• Put your face near the pet like if you are giving kisses. Children have a tendency to do this unknowingly. Any signs of showing teeth or growling should be consulted with a licensed trainer.


• Do not reinforce that the dog "runs the house". When a dog feels superior over its owners and requires all your free attention, you may find it extremely difficult to have both baby and pet in the home since the baby will then require all your attention when it arrives. A dog should know when enough is enough. Make sure your pet knows your tone of commands and that you are the master of his/her domain.


• Get at eye level with your pet; laying on the floor, crawling on the floor, etc... See if your pet has any change of behavior such as a higher energy level, trying to knock you over, etc... Remember, your baby will be crawling on the floors that your pet walks about so get your pet accustomed to this.


• Make sure your pet knows how to take food out of your hands "gently". Unknowing toodlers and young children have a habit of walking around with their treats in their hand and handing them over to a pet. A dog with no manners or aggresive with food, may nip a child while trying to take the food out of the baby's hand.

If you feel uncomfortable with doing any of the "tests" suggested above, you may be at a level that you do not trust your pet. Just remember that a properly trained dog that is happy, content, well socialized and adjusted will certainly be accepting of a baby; it just up to you to then teach the child to respect and be nice to the pet.

Just consult with a licensed dog trainer to assist you with behavioral testing should any issues arise so a modification training plan can be given to ensure that your "four legged baby" starts to acclimate itself with a little two legged baby running around as well.

Dog Safety Tips

When owning a dog, they will become your best friend. Through thick and thin, they are always there for you; giving you unconditional love no matter what. However, as their owner, it's up to you to keep them from injuring themselves, digesting harmful things and just keeping them out of reach of things that can potentially be fatal to them. Here is a list of things to keep your pet safe all year round:

Aluminum Foil
When ingested, aluminum foil can cut a dog's intestines, causing internal bleeding, and in some cases, even death.

Anti-Freeze
If ingested, anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) is often lethal, even in very small quantities. Because many pets like its sweet taste, there are an enormous number of animal fatalities each year from animals licking or drinking anti-freeze. Poisoning from anti-freeze is considered a serious medical emergency which must be treated by a qualified veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Bloat
Bloat (gastric torsion & stomach distension) is a serious life-threatening emergency which must be treated by a qualified veterinarian IMMEDIATELY. Bloat is relatively common among large and deep-chested breeds, such as Basset Hounds, Boxers, Dobermans, German Shepherds and Great Danes. Many experts believe that a feeding a large meal within 2 hours of exercise or severe stress may trigger this emergency. Eating quickly, changes in diet, and gas-producing foods may also contribute to this serious condition. Symptoms of bloat include: unsuccessful retching, pacing, panting, drooling, an enlarged stomach/torso, and/or signs of distress.

Chocolate
Chocolate contains an element which is toxic to dogs, called Theobromine. Even an ounce or two of chocolate can be lethal to a small dog (10 lbs. or less) or young puppies. Larger quantities of chocolate can poison or even kill a medium or large dog. Dark and unsweetened baking chocolates are especially dangerous because of the amount of cocoa that is in them. Symptoms of chocolate poisoning include: vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, hyperactivity and seizures. During many holidays such as Christmas, Valentines Day, Easter and Halloween, chocolate is often accessible to curious dogs, and in some cases, people unwittingly poison their dogs by offering them chocolate as a treat. Should you suspect that your pet has eaten chocolate, please contact your local veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Corn Cobs
Many dogs have suffered and, in some cases, died after eating corn-on-the-cob, when the corn's cob caused partial or complete intestinal obstruction. Never allow your dog access to corn cobs.

Electrocution
Christmas tree lights and electrical cords can be fatal if chewed on by a pet. Whenever possible, keep electrical cords out of reach from pets, especially puppies who are always curious and willing to chew on anything.

Fireworks
Never unnecessarily expose your pet to firecracker noises or fireworks displays, as they can cause companion animals tremendous fear, and in many cases, long-term phobias. Make sure to keep dogs indoors, and keep walks (on a leash) very brief during times when firecrakers are often used.

Grapes, Raisins & Macadamia Nuts
These healthy tasting treats to us humans can be potentially poisonous to pets, especially in young or small breeds. If you would like to share a healthy and safe treat with your pet, stick with apples, bananas, carrots or celery. If you suspect your pet eating any grapes, raisins or nuts, please contact your local veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion
A dog's normal internal body temperature is between 100.5 degrees F and 103 degrees F. Leaving a dog in a parked car in the summer (even with the window a few inches open), can cause heatstroke within minutes. Heat exhaustion is usually caused by over-exercising a dog during hot weather. Both heatstroke and heat exhaustion can result in brain damage, heart failure or even death in a short period of time. To cool off an overheated dog, wet the dog's body and paws with cool water, then fan. If the dog experiences heatstroke or heat exhaustion, he should receive veterinary attention immediately.

Hypothermia
When a dog's internal thermometer drops below 96 degrees F from being exposed to cold temperature for long periods, there is a serious risk to the dog's safety. Small and short-haired dogs should wear sweaters or coats when taken for walks during cold winter weather. A good rule of thumb is if you walk outside without a coat or sweater and are immediately cold, your dog will be too. Therefore, help maintain your pet's internal temperature with some kind of outter protection. If you seen signs of your dog being cold, such as shivering, bring the dog indoors immediately.

Ice-Melting Chemicals and Salt
Ice-melting chemicals and salt placed across sidewalks and roads can cause severe burning to your dog's footpads. Whenever possible, avoid walking your dog through these substances, and wash off his footpads when you return home. There are also products available such as Musher's Secret which can be applied to your dog's footpads prior to going outside or having your dog wear dog boots to avoid their paw pads being exposed to such chemicals.

Plastic Food Wrap
Plastic food wrap can cause choking or intestinal obstruction. Some dogs will eat the plastic wrapping when there are food remnants left coating its surface.

Poisonous Plants

Dogs can become extremely ill or even die from eating indoor and outdoor plants. Keep all indoor and unknown plant types away from your pet at all times. You may also spray plants with Bitter Apple that may help deter your pet from eating it.

Pools & Spas

To contrary belief that all dogs can swim - this is not necessarily true. Dogs (and puppies) that fall into pools & spas may accidently drown, especially if there is no steps close enough for that pet to get out safely. It is highly recommended, specially during boating adventures, that a pet near any body of water wears a life vest and be supervised at all times.

Tinsel and Other Christmas Tree Ornaments
When ingested by a dog, tinsel may cause obstruction of the intestines, and the broken pieces of ornaments with sharp edges can even cut the intestines. Symptoms may include: decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, listlessless and weight loss. Treatment usually requires surgery.

Collars
Remove your dog's training collars whenever left unsupervised or crated. Never tie your dog by attaching a leash or tether to your dog's training collar. Always use a flat buckle collar when tying your dog, and then only when supervised. Never leave your dog tied unsupervised in front of stores, restaurants or supermarkets, as they can be harrassed, poisoned or stolen.

Don't Make Your Pet a Front Seat Driver

We all seen and heard it; the media exposing Britney Spears about a year ago, allowing her infant to sit on her lap while driving through the streets of Los Angeles. As there is no doubt that her choice to do this was poor and very unsafe for her child, but it is illegal. So the question is to anyone that allows their pet to do the same; have you ever considered how you are potentially putting your pet also at risk when you allow your dog to be on your lap (or not secured somehow) while you are behind the wheel as well? In some states it's also illegal to have your pet on the driver's seat but although you may not be caught doing so, the consequences could be fatal should you ever be involved in a car accident.

Airbags deploys within approximately 15 to 30 milliseconds (pretty much at a blink of an eye) and is strictly designed to keep you from injuring yourself or putting you through the windshield of that car. At the force of deployment, a small puppy or dog that is in this area will be easily and majorily injured. This includes passengers holding a puppy in the front seat of a car.

When driving, whether you are the driver or passenger, it is highly recommended that you secure your pet, as you would do yourself. In today's market, many products are now designed to keep you pet safe while enjoying the opportunity of taking a drive with you. Here are some of our recommendations:

• Dog Car Seat - These are designed to not only keep your pet secure, but elevated, so your pet can enjoy looking out the window while minimizing motion sickness. They easily secure to your seat with the use of your car's seat belts. A built in safety strap is always included so you can then attach it to your dog's harness. Note: Never attach the safety strap to a dog's collar. Should you ever be involved in a car accident, the pulling force should come from the dog's chest area (strongest part), rather than the neck which can potentially break (especially on very small breeds and young puppies). Car seats are usually made for puppies or small breeds up to 30 lbs.


• Dog Car Harness - Comes complete with an adjustable web harness that attaches easily to virtually any seat belt with a universal seat belt clip. An adjustable strap keeps dogs safely contained while allowing them to sit, lie down, or stand comfortably. The harness adjusts at the neck and the chest for a more secure and comfortable fit. It’s made of strong, durable woven nylon with plastic quick-release buckles and heavy-duty hardware. Please note: This device does not work with some Saab and Volvo seat belts. Requires an adapter from Ford for use with Ford Explorers. Made for puppies to large breeds.

So the next time you are traveling with your pet, whether it's down the road or across country, secure your pet just like you do yourself to keep both of you safe. Although your pet may want to be as close to you as possible, you could be potentially saving his/her life should an accident happen.

Puppy Care Basics

Puppies are so cute and loveable, they can melt just about anyones heart. However, taking on the role of being a puppy parent can be a tough job. Remember, they are living, breathing creatures and it's your job to ensure they grow up healthy, happy and well socialized little animals.

First things first. When you purchase or adopt your puppy, make sure that puppy is over at least 7-8 weeks of age. If someone is trying to sell you a puppy 5-6 weeks of age, please reconsider the purchase of this puppy. Although this may be a hard thing to pass up, puppies gather some of the most vital and important socialization skills with their siblings and mother during this time. Also, in many states, it is illegal to sell a puppy under 7 weeks of age. Any so-called breeder selling a puppy so early in age, must be questioned as to whether they truly love their animals and well being of the puppies. For more information, please visit our other articles on Where to Find a Reputable Dog Breeder, or Buyer Beware - Where Not To Purchase a Puppy.

SLEEPY TIME

Puppies, like human infants, will have a tendency to sleep alot. They are growing creatures that require alot of sleep in order to develop properly. Crates provide a great place for puppies to nap and rest as they will soon realize it will be their "den". Just make sure to use either old blankets or towels inside a crate for a few months as accidents are prone to happen. Buying designer beds are not suggested unless they have removable covers for washing. Also, because puppies have a tendency to chew on everything during teething time, it is further suggested to use things that can be discarded without hesitation should they be ruined.

DIET & NUTRITION

Puppies require a well balanced, natural food to help their growing bodies mature. With all the different types of commerical dog foods on the market, it is up to you to research and determine how healthy you want to feed your growning puppy. Although more natural, holistic foods can tend to be a bit more expensive, it is worth every penny! Puppies that are fed a more natural diet have less chances of developing allergies and minor to major health problems when they start to mature. For more information on choosing the right food for your puppy, please visit our other article; Feeding Your Puppy "Right" From the Start.

VETERINARY CARE

When you purchase your puppy or adopt one from a local shelter or rescue, chances are that the puppy has already had a visit to a vet for their first series of shots and check up. However, request from the seller the medical history on the puppy, should one not be given. This list will include information such as the name of the veterinarian who administered the shots and what type of vaccinations where given. Also, it should be noted whether or not the puppy was fit for sale.

A common schedule of puppy vaccinations & treatments are as follows:

2 - 3 weeks old - Worming
6 - 8 weeks old - 1st DHLPP + Corona + Worming
11 - 12 weeks old - 2nd DHLPP + Corona
15 -16 weeks old - 3rd DHLPP + Corona
16+ weeks - Rabies

It's vitally important that your puppy get all the above shots to protect him or her from potentially fatal diseases. Do not skimp on any of the puppy's vaccinations. You may think that it's only one that is missed but missing one can be fatel. Distemper and Parvo are the #1 killers of puppies and therefore, critical for a puppy to be fully vaccinated according to schedule. Your choosen veterinarian will gladly explain this all to you once you make your first initial visit with him/her.

Should your puppy ever experience symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, dry hacking , restlessness and/or being lethargic, please visit your local vet immediately!

HOUSEBREAKING

There is no doubt about it - this is probably going to be one of the most trying phases of owning a puppy. Just keep consistant and stay patient! For successful tips and tricks to make housebreaking easier for you, please read our article "Puppy Housebreaking Tips".

PLAY TIME

Having toys for your puppy is necessary. They are not only fun to play with, but it will keep your puppy occupied and relieve any anxiety or stress, plus help with the tendency to chew on things when they are going through the "teething process".

With so many dog toys on the market, choose your puppy's toys carefully. Although some companies may market their toy as "fun", they can potentially not be as safe, especially when a puppy is left unsupervised.

Here are a few suggestions on choosing the right kind of dog toy for your puppy:

• Rubber Toys - These toys are great, especially for puppies since they are more durable. However, be careful of thin latex toys. These toys can be destroyed very easily and your puppy can swallow small rubber pieces. Kong toys, specifically, are especially fun and safe because they can relatively be chewed on without being destroyed. Also, you can further mentally stimulate your puppy's interest to this toy by placing treats inside. Another great alternative is smearing peanut butter inside this toy. Most puppies (and dogs) go crazy over peanut butter (and it's safe & healthy for them to eat too!)
• Rawhides - We are not big advocates of rawhides, nor suggest them. Although this was and still is a common "treat" for dogs, rawhides can be easily broken into large pieces and swallowed; potentially choking the puppy or these pieces being lodged in the intestines. Also, rawhides that are produced and made outside of the USA, (should you still decide to offer this to you puppy), is HIGHLY NOT SUGGESTED. Unfortunatley, the process of which rawhide is produced in other countries are not monitored closely and regulated for chemicals & additives. Look at the packaging!
• Natural Chews & Bones - There is a great selection of natural chews & bones you can give to your puppy or dog that will provide hours of enjoyment. As with any type of treat or toy, close supervision is always suggested but when choosing a chew (or bone), make sure they are produced in the USA. We highly suggest Merrick Dog Chews
• Plush Toys - Plush toys are great, especially when "squeakers" are inside. The noises they produce will certainly entertain your puppy or dog, however, if your puppy is not closely supervised or will be, it is not suggested for these to be given. All "soft toys" can easily be destroyed, thus enabling your puppy to choke or to get sick, should they swallow pieces. If you choose to give your puppy (or dog) plush toys, make sure to supervise them at all times.
• Edible Nylabones & Greenies - We are not keen in giving these toys/treats to puppies nor dogs. We have heard reports of these breaking off into large pieces and when swallowed, puppies (and dogs) were having a hard time digesting these properly.
• Hurleys & Hucks - These toys are simply indestructible and loved by many! Made from Zogoflex, an extremely pliable & one-of-a-kind material that is made in the USA, these toy are guaranteed to withstand the most powerful chewers and provide hours of enjoyment.
• Balls & Frisbees - Many puppies and adult dogs love these types of toys as they can be thrown and retrieved, especially in large backyards or parks.
• Rope Toys - These toys are also great for cleaning your puppy's and dog's teeth while providing hours of enjoyment. However, once the rope starts to fray, it is suggested to throw it out immediately.

Overall, use common sense with selecting dog toys and always supervise your pet when it's playing with them. Kongs, Hurley's and Huck's are best suggested while your puppy or dog is in a crate and can not be supervised.

BE A SOCIAL BUTTERFLY

Once your puppy is up to date on all it's shots, start going out as a team to public places. A well socialized puppy will mature into a more well behaved pet. It is highly suggested to start your puppy in a "Puppy Kindergarden" or Social Class. This is where your puppy will enjoy approximately an hour of supervised playtime with other puppies and learning important social skills around other dogs. You may also enjoy finding a pet or specific breed meet up group in your local area! Visit Meetup.com and enter your zip code to see all the available types of meet up groups in your area that involve pets!

TRAINING CLASSES

Enrolling your puppy in a basic obedience training class is highly suggested. This is where you will learn important tips and tricks on helping your pet be a more well mannered animal in and outside of your home. Contact your local veterinarian for a referral should you not know where to go.

PUPPY LOVE!

This is probably the easiest part of taking care of a puppy. You just can't help to snuggle, play and rub that little soft belly! However, love is not just about playing and cuddling. Making sure that your puppy gets everything he/she needs to be safe, happy and healthy is the most important things to being a parent to a pet. Show your love by being a responsible puppy parent because the love you'll get back will be incredible.

Paws To The Rescue!

As we have reported of the fate of dogs that are placed in high kill shelters that are being euthanized by the thousands each day across the country, it's the determination of some special non-kill rescue organizations that truly make a difference, especially to everyone involved.

For the last few weeks, I have been personally volunteering a few hours of my time to a rescue organization called "Paws To The Rescue". Based in Surfside Beach, South Carolina, Paws To The Rescue pulls animals scheduled for euthanasia out of "kill shelters" and gets these pets into a temporary, but safe, foster or boarding facility until they can find other approved "non kill" rescue organizations to take over the task of housing and finding them a great home. Once it is determined what other rescue organizations will participate, Paws To The Rescue then provides the necessary vaccinations prior to the transport, and then finds volunteer drivers so they can coordinate the transportation route to the pet's final rescue organizaton.

The start of this rescue's transport (a.k.a. freedom train) usually begins in South Carolina where Paws To The Rescue is based out of. Between the help of many volunteers who live locally through the route of where the "freedom train" is passing through, each driver only drives for approximately one hour until they meet another transportation driver at a specific meet up location and then pass the dogs along to the next driver. This continues on until the final leg of the transport is at the doors of the rescue organization who will then provide all the necessary and additional care until those dogs are adopted.

So, on a leisurely Sunday afternoon when I get notice that the "freedom train" will be passing through my area, I graciously volunteer a few hours of my time (and gas) to this well organized rescue group. Driving approximately 3-4 dogs at a time, I meet up with the prior driver, take the dogs and then drive usally an hour north of me to another meet up location where I meet another volunteer. As easily as this is, nothing is more rewarding when you are taking part in helping an animal in need, no matter if it's only an hour. Having the opportunity to meet and give some needed love and deserved attention to these sweet souls during a quiet hour drive is just priceless.

If you live in the eastern states of South Carolina to upstate New York and would like more information on becoming a "freedom train" volunteer, please visit their Shelter Home Page or contact Jen Nall directly by email to get on her freedom train call out list. Another great rescue organization looking for volunteer drivers in the same areas is "Get Shelter Pets". You can contact Rhonda Sims by email as well.

Improve Your Dog's Health - Just The Way Nature Intended

Like in the wild, animals hunt and eat fresh foods. There is no adding of artifical flavors, processed ingredients or chemical preservatives which is commonly found in many traditional dry dog foods. Moreover, dogs are not intended to eat grains either but surprisingly, they are found in many dog foods as well. This includes corn, wheat, and oats. Grains are simply not biologically appropriate for our pets. They are only used as "cheap" fillers in the production process. The ingestion of grains and other starchy foods contribute to most, if not all, of the degenerative diseases (cancer, diabetes, etc..) that pets are suffering from commonly now a days. Domestic pets should be getting their carbohydrates in a similar manner as their wild ancestors did. Fresh fruits and vegetables provide a great source of carbohydrates in a more digestible format while fresh meats (either raw or cooked) provide the approprate protein sources, as with natural vitamins and minerals that an animal only needs.

Although the thought of your dog eating fresh, uncooked meat may be repulsive to you, you can always just take the ol' fashion approach....simply making homemade cooked meals for your pet. If that is not an option, here are two suggestions on getting your pet on a natural grain-free, fresh diet (and convenient, to boot!)

• Grandma Lucy's "True" Grain-Free Diet - A nutritionally balanced blend of USDA (cookied) chicken, fruits, vegetables, and herbs. This grain free recipe has no fillers. It is packed with natural human grade ingredients and freeze dried for maximum freshness. Equally add the same amount of water to the size of food measured and let sit for 10 minutes to rehydrate. Contains: USDA Chicken, Potatoes, Flax, Carrots, Celery, Apples, Blueberry, Garlic, Vitamin A, Vitamin D3, Vitamin E, Niacin, Iron, Calcium, Phosphorous, Zinc, Riboflavin, Thiamin, Potassium, Manganese, Chloride, Copper, Magnesium. Also available in Lamb.
• The Honest Kitchen - Features 5 different raw receipes that feature no grains, low carbohydrates and no fillers. It is packed with natural human grade ingredients and freeze dried for maximum freshness.

Both products are sold in our retail location in Red Bank. For further information or to request a sample, please stop in our store!

Having To Say Goodbye - Doing It Right!

Unfortunately, some people may have to experience surrendering a pet to a shelter or rescue because of numerous, heart wrenching reasons. Although it is very upsetting for the owner (or entire family), it is more stressful to the pet. Dogs in nature are pack animals and when his/her pack is split up, dogs become quite confused and will experience some form of anxiety. Whether it is unforeseen circumstances on your part, a pet's behavior that you can't handle or simply finding out you don't have the time and dedication to provide to that pet anymore, the most HUMANE way of doing it is YOU FINDING THE RIGHT place for that pet!

Here are a few suggestions to help you re-home your pet in a safe & loving environment:

• DO NOT drop off your pet at any local shelter! Many municipal shelters are "kill" shelters meaning if that dog is NOT adopted by someone within 3-7 days, it will be euthinized (killed) even if the dog has nothing wrong with it. Because municipal shelters are on "budgets", they only have enough of money to house a dog for a short period of time. Ask shelter staff what their policies are if a dog is not adopted within a period of time! If they tell you that the dog will be killed, WALK OUT WITH THE DOG as the dog truly does not deserve this.
• Many private "non-kill" rescues and shelters are listed on Petfinder.com You can call or email any of the ones in your area for assistance. They will usually ask for a small donation to take the pet from you. However, since they will be housing the dog in a foster home, feeding it and in some cases, getting any or all medical treatments necessary, it is only a small contribution to helping that pet find a good home. Also, private rescues will screen and do all reference checks on all potential adoptees to ensure your pet is placed only the right, loving home.
• If your dog is a pure breed, many breeds have their own rescue organizations and are ran privately by volunteers that know and understand the breed. Simply do an internet search by putting (BREED NAME) RESCUE (YOUR STATE) in the search field to find your local breed rescue.
• Ask family, neighbors or friends if they would like to adopt your pet with a simple phone call. Also, emailing your contacts can work very successfully! Most people now crosspoint emails with their friends and family by a click of a button.
• Make up flyers and post them! It's the ol' fashion way, but can be highly successful!
• Most newspapers offer free classified advertising on anything you are offering for free. Contact your local paper as it can potentially reach thousands of readers in one day.
• Use Craig's List! It's free! Simply click on your state (on the right) and then post in your state's "Community Pet" section and also under the "For Sale - Free Items". It is very effective!

Please note: If you are surrendering your pet because of behavioral issues only, make sure to disclose all information to anyone interested in taking your pet, even if it has nipped or bitten someone. The last thing you would want is to put someone else in jeopardy, especially a child.

Lastly, when surrendering your pet to a stranger, get some background information from that person and do reference checks! Just don't hand over your dog to just anyone. The last thing you would want is to find out that your pet was not being properly cared for or perhaps neglected or abused. It's just not fair to the animal as they simply deserve a second chance. Having your pet live out the rest of their life in a happy and safe environment with someone who is going to appreciate and love them is the best thing you can do when having to say "goodbye".

Puppy Basics - Feeding Your Baby "Right" From the Start

If you are new to owning your first puppy, you can feel as overwhelmed as a new parent giving birth to a newborn baby. What and when to feed your little one can be a little confusing since we know you want the best for your puppy and want to make sure they are getting the proper amount of food. With so many brands of pet food out there claiming to be "healthy" and "all natural", it is up to you as the consumer and your puppy's new parent to make wise and smart decisions, especially on your puppy's future dietary needs.

Here are a few suggestions what and when to feed your new puppy:

• Feed your puppy a wholesome, natural, holistic diet from the start. Although these foods can tend to be more expensive, it will be best for your puppy in the long run in regards to health and help promote longivity. If the breeder has given you a specific food, please read the ingredients. Believe it or not, a breeder can send home a healthy new puppy with the most unhealthiest of dog foods. For more information on choosing a great dog food, please read our other post on Dog Foods Are Not Made Equally
• If switching your puppy's food to a more natural and healthy diet from what the breeder gave you, do it gradually in order not to upset your puppy's tender stomach. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 of the new brand and 3/4 of the old brand. Do this for 3 days and then do 1/2 and 1/2 for another few days until you have reached a whole feeding of the new brand.
• Soften puppy food with a little warm water. Not only will it draw out the flavor of the dry food and create a gravy, it will also aid in digestion. Also, since puppies gums can be a little tender during the teething phase, it will be more comforting to the puppy while eating.
• Provide fresh, clean water at all times. Natural spring bottled water or filtered tap water should be used.
• Start your puppy on 3 feedings a day (morning, afternoon & night) and stay consistant with the feeding times. Should your puppy be picky or not eating, leave the food down for at least 20-30 minutes. If your puppy does not eat it, pick it up, throw it out (never re-use food that has been moisten with water or canned food as it can spoil). You can give a treat or two to hold your puppy over until the next scheduled feeding should it not eat.
• If you have a tiny teacup or toy breed puppy, it is highly suggested to make sure your puppy is consistantly eating at least three times a day until it is approximately 6-8 months old. Low blood sugar levels on tiny breed puppies can be fatal until they puppy has matured.
• It is common for a puppy in the first day or two of coming to it's new home not to eat all it's food on all feedings. Please remember, your puppy has to get adjusted to it's surroundings and your routines but just make sure they do get some food in their tiny belly.
• Depending on the breed and size of the puppy, start with the recommended feeding size on all 3 feedings. If you notice your puppy not eating all it's food in the afternoon feeding for about 3-5 days straight (but eats consistantly with the other feedings), start eliminating that afternoon feeding as it's your puppy's way of telling you that they don't need that extra food anymore.
• Don't be afraid to add some flavor to your pet's dry food! You can add broiled chicken and/or turkey, a little non fat yogurt or even cottage cheese. Also, baby food works very well too!
• I am a big advocate on adding natural "canned" food to pet's dry food. Although some vets and breeders can tell you that it is not necessary, I believe it is. Just ask youself this question. If you were eating the same food day after day, wouldn't you get tired of it? Also, since dry food is cooked at very high tempatures during the production process, adding a little bit of a good quality canned food adds more nutrients and vitamins to your dog's diet that the dog food can lack a bit. Don't feed the whole can at one. Simply just add a teaspoon or tablespoon for some variety!
• Don't be surprised if you choose a food and your pet doesn't seem to care for. Just like humans, pets do have a sense for taste and may not like the brand you picked. Simply find one that he/she loves and stick to it.
• Once your puppy starts to mature (and depending on the breed/size), you may want to consider buying a raised feeder. Larger breeds will tend to find eating from a raised feeder a bit more comfortable. It has also been known to help in digestion when pets are eating at "their level".

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:

• Do not feed a dog before or after any "hard" playtime. Let their stomach settle down a bit to avoid vomiting or in larger breeds, a condition called "bloat".
• "Free feeding" or simply leaving dry food for your dog at all times is not recommended. It has been known to cause obesity in dogs. Stick to scheduled feeeding times.
• Always feed a pet at least twice a day (once in the morning and then early evening). If the recommended feeding is 2 cups a day, split the feeding in half. A dog with an empty stomach can actually start to vomit a white/yellowish foam (bile) which makes the dog feel weak/sick. When a dog's stomach is empty or not feeling well, they will have the tendency to want to eat grass.
• Never feed your puppy or adult dog chocolate, raisins, grapes or macadamia nuts. These are poisonous to pets.

We hope these feeding suggestions are useful in raising your new puppy. However, if your puppy is not eating, lethargic or experiencing consistant loose stools, please visit your vet immediately.

Puppy Housebreaking Tips

A puppy, just like a newborn baby, needs lots of care, attention, time, and patience on your part. If you have the misconception that you only have to feed it regularly, take it out frequently and play with it here and there, you have another thing coming. A happy, healthy and well trained puppy all starts with you and your level of patience and care that you will provide in the months to come.

The day you bring home your puppy should be the day you immediately start to train your pet. We don't mean having the dog sit, stay or give paw but we do mean the dreaded "housebreaking". Housebreaking will be one of the most frustrating phases of owning your puppy but if you stay consistant with it, you can have your pet housebroken within a few weeks to a few months. Here are a few tips and necessities when training your puppy:

CRATE TRAINING

• Buy a crate! Crates are not bad places (unless you make it one). It will certainly assist you in the housebreaking - we promise! A matter of fact, within a few weeks, your puppy will be enjoying the crate as they will begin to see it as their "house/den". Just note, it will take time for your pet to get adjusted to it and your puppy may cry and whimper. Just stay consistant on a routine with it.
• When you purchase a crate, make sure it will accomodate your pet's size (and your pet can easily turn around in it). If you have a puppy that is anticipated to be at least 3-5 times bigger in size as an adult, we suggest buying a crate that will accomodate your pet as if it was an adult already. Most crates now a days come complete with the "optional" divider included to make the crate smaller in size on the inside for the time being.
• Don't put any expensive bedding in the crate. Our suggestion is to use old towels and blankets as they will be washed excessively due to being soiled frequently until your puppy learns to hold itself.
• NEVER put a puppy in a crate with a collar. Puppies have been known to strangle themselves!
• Since a dog's nature is not to do their "business" where they sleep, your puppy will soon realize how to hold it's bladder (or bowels) in the crate. Do not get discouraged if your puppy does have accidents for the next week or so. You will be washing the bedding frequently and perhaps bathing your puppy from time to time but this is why a crate is essential so the dog learns how to hold itself and help strengthen the bladder muscles.
• NEVER give a puppy the impression that the crate is a "bad" place. Make each visit a positive one. You may even use "treats" to lure or reward them once they volunteerly go in there. Never ever use it as a "time out - you did a bad thing" place. Puppies and dogs associate things to one another. So, if you use the crate as a disciplinary place, you will have a hard time getting them to go in there each and every time.
• A general rule of thumb of how long a puppy can hold itself is for every month it's old, it can hold it for that many hours during "up time". For example, if the dog is 3 months old, it should be able to hold it's bladder for approximately 3 hours while it's not sleeping.
• Do not leave a puppy in a crate for more than 4 hours without being let out to do it's "business" and some playtime. You will find it extremely difficult to housebreak once a puppy gets used to making "messes" in it's crate. Therefore, if you work full time, either make plans to come home everyday for lunch or have a friend/family member or perhaps a pet sitter come over. It is cruel to leave a small, young puppy in a crate for 6-8 hours at a time.
• Put ONE toy in the crate. Our suggestion is to have a rubber toy such as a Kong Binkee in there. Kongs are great as they can be chewed on safely and even stuffed with treats (and peanut butter!). This will definately stimulate your puppy mentally and physically while being left alone. Also, if it does get soiled on, it is easy to clean. We, however, DO NOT recommend plush, soft toys while young puppies are crated. Puppies in crates have "unsupervised" time and therefore, have the time to destroy soft plush toys and potentially eat the "stuffing" or even choke on the squeaker, should they get it out. Therefore, keep a safe but fun toy in the crate at all times.
• Do not place a crate near any electrical outlets that have electrical cords dangling from them. A bored puppy can easily find a dangling electrial cord as a toy and potential get it in it's crate to chew on thus causing the puppy to get an electrical shock.
• Place the puppy in it's crate while you go to bed. A young puppy should not be sleeping in your bed just yet (should you decide to do that). However, you may find it more soothing, for you and the puppy, to place the crate "near" your bed. Putting the puppy's crate in another room may cause the puppy to cry for lengths of time and as such, you not being able to sleep a restful night's sleep. A puppy that can see, smell and hear you will be more comforted, especially that it still needs to adjust to it's new home and surroundings.
• What goes in, must come out. Therefore, do not put water in the pet's crate during sleeping hours. A puppy's water can be taken away at 9-10pm. Also, if your puppy is in a crate for small intervals, having access to water is not necessary either. Your puppy can easily eat and drink when they are out of the crate and while you have the time to take it out to relieve itself.
• Never let a puppy's paws touch the ground when taking them out of the crate for the first few weeks. Pick up your puppy and take directly outside to avoid any accidents to the backdoor.

HOUSEBREAKING OUTSIDE OF THE CRATE

Once your puppy has learned the ability to hold itself in the crate, it does not mean your puppy is housebroken. You have just only hurdled over one small leap. Here are a few more suggestions to help you get closer to housebreaking your puppy successfully:

• Once you have just carried your puppy from the crate to outside, make and keep one word that you will consistantly use frequently everyday (i.e. "do business", "do potty", or "do pee-pee"). Say your choosen command over and over again until the puppy does what it's suppose to do and reward him/her with a favorite treat. Just make sure it has eliminated itself completely and then bring them inside.
• We do not recommend keeping a puppy outside for playtime after it has eliminated itself completely. The trick is to have the puppy only associate the "outside" as a bathroom area for right now.
• DO NOT give a puppy free roam of the house! This is the most important and crucial step in housebreaking your puppy successfully. If your puppy has mastered holding itself in a small, confined area (it's crate), giving a puppy free roam of the house or even a large room will give them plenty of opportunity to have accidents, especially if you can not watch your puppy's every move. Start the puppy's "privledged" area off small. A good place would be gating off a kitchen area where your puppy can eat, play, etc.. Also, if your puppy has an occassional accident, it would be easy to clean up as well.
• Your puppy's every moment outside of the crate should be supervised closely. The last thing you want is for your puppy to have a small accident and you not even seeing it. Unseen accidents that have not been cleaned properly will just give your puppy the thought that it can go there again. Canines have the instinct to go in the same place as this is where they smell their marking. Therefore, do not allow your pet the opportunity to do so in your house!
• If you see your puppy sniffing the floor or just moving in a pacing motion, take your puppy outside immediately and say your choosen command word until it has done their business. Again, reward them for a "job well done!". Just remember, you will be doing this SEVERAL times a day!
• Puppies should be let outside to do their business approximately 10-20 minutes after each meal, during playtimes, and before they go to bed. Just make sure, again, that they are let out immediately (without their paws touching the floor) after nap time or when you immediately wake up.
• Should your puppy have an accident in the house, do not use regular household cleaners as they will not destroy the enzymes in urine and feces. Although you can spray the area with a regular cleaner or fabric refreshing spray, to a dog's nose, they will still smell urine! A good product to kill the scent and enzymes is using Natures Miracle or a simple vinegar/water solution.
• If your puppy does have an accident in the house that you did not see with your own eyes (even though the evidence is right there), DO NOT discipline your puppy. It is actually your own fault that you were not there to "correct" the behavior. Usually a puppy will give you a few seconds of "signals" that they are about to go. So, therefore, just clean it up and and continue on. A puppy's attention span is like a baby's and will not know what or why they are in trouble. Catching the behavior or simply not giving your puppy the opportunity to make a "mess" will strengthen the association of the "outside" as the bathroom area making housebreaking more successful.
• Be prepared to be accident-free for a few days or a few weeks and then find your puppy just having an accident. This is normal. Just stay consistant and don't get discouraged. The little "light bulb" in their brain will go back on, as we say.
• If you can not watch your puppy (you have to take a shower, clean the house, etc..), use the crate! The crate is also a great way to give your puppy some "down time" for a nap.

OTHER HOUSEBREAKING TIPS

If you live in an apartment and do not have your own backyard, housebreaking will become a little more difficult as you don't have the ability to just open up the backdoor and have your own yard. Therefore, here are some suggestions that are useful, especially if you have a smaller breed:

• Puppy Pads - These are disposable pads that are just placed on the floor for your pet to eliminate on. Many people put them in a laundry area, kitchen or bathroom. Because many brands are "pre-scented" to lure your pet to go on them, housebreaking can be quite easy.
• Pet a Potty - This is a great product, especially if you live in a condo or an apartment. They come in many sizes from tiny to XXXL to accomodate the smallest to larger of breeds. Gives your pet a place to eliminate itself anywhere, even if you don't have grass! Perfect for balconys or terraces.

We hope you find some or all of our suggestions useful. If you feel that you have done all of the above (and then some) and your puppy is still having consistant accidents in your home, please make an appointment for your puppy to be checked by a vet immediately. Your puppy may be experiencing a medical issue such as a bladder infection.

Dog Foods Are Not Made Equally

You love your pet and pamper that precious life you have. Elaborate fancy dog collars, designer dog clothes and even indulging in visits to the dog groomer may make your dog look great from the outside but in realty, what makes your dog happy and healthy all starts from the inside.

In recent years, especially during the last pet food recall scare of which many dogs were getting ill and even dying, people are now starting to read ingredient labels on pet food brands. With hundreds of brands out there, you can find pet food pretty much any where but the key is to find a "quality", holistic and natural food. For starters we highly recommend either of the following: Solid Gold Dog Food, Merrick, Innova, Evo, The Honest Kitchen or Grandma Lucy's "True".

Although convenience plays a big part of why people select a certain brand to feed their pet (easy to get) or perhaps the repeat marketing efforts that big corportions do over the television, print and even internet, here are some things to consider when you feed your pet next time (this also includes TREATS you feed your dog as well):

• Read the ingredients on the bag! If the first 8 ingredients start with any of the following, it is BEST suggested to switch your dog's food as soon as possible! Meat by-products, corn (corn meal, corn syrup, corn gluten, or ground corn), poultry by-products, lamb by-products, turkey by-products, sugar, or cane molasses By-products are NOT GOOD for dogs, along with corn (no matter how the corn is processed) nor any kind of sugar. By the way, if you are wondeirng what a "by-product" is, it's the "left overs" of an animals that are not for human consumption. See below for additional details.


• The best rule of thumb is if you can pick up your dog's food in the same place when you are shopping for your grocerys, it may NOT be the most healthiest of dog foods.


• Do not let certain marketing schemes on brands fool you. Foods can say "All Natural" and/or "Great Tasting" but the realty of it is that it may not be all natural. Again, read the ingredients!


• A GOOD quality food starts with any of these in their first 8 ingredients: lamb, fish, bison, salmon, chicken, beef, and then lists wholesome vegtables such as carrots and potatos. Dog foods high in grains are not suggested. It is now common to see specific brands labeled "grain free".


• Stay away from any dog food that contains the following perservatives: BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin. These are potentially cancer-causing agents.

Now, here is what certain ingredients mean:

By-products: Pet grade by-products consist of organs and parts either not desired, or condemned for human consumption. This can include bones, blood, intestines, lungs,
ligaments, heads, feet, and feathers.

Corn: Corn products are difficult for dogs to digest and some dogs experience being allergic to this ingredient.

Food Fragments: These are lower cost by-products of another food manufacturing process. They include wheat bran and brewer's rice which are waste products of the alcohol industry.

Meat and Bone Meal: These are inexpensive sources of animal protein. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be hard to digest and may not provide adequate
nutrition.

Animal Fat: Animal fat is a "generic" fat source that is most often made up of rendered animal fat, restaurant grease or other oils too rancid to be edible for humans. Look for a named fat source like poultry or chicken fat that is naturally preserved.

Chemical Preservatives: Chemical preservatives include butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), propyl gallate, propylene glycol and ethoxyquin. BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin are potentially cancer-causing agents.

Sweeteners: Sweeteners such as corn syrup, sugar, and cane molasses are usually added to lower quality foods to increase their appeal. Dietary sugars can begin or aggrevate health problems, such as diabetes.

Beef Tallow: This is a low quality fat product.

Just remember, if you feed your pet the best nutritional foods that are available, you may experience LESS visits to the vet for illnesses or minor medical conditions and even prolong your precious pet's life in the long run. Therefore, your best bet is to start your puppy on a healthy diet right from the start. If the breeder suggests or even gives you a brand of food that they have been feeding the puppy, take it in your own hands to read the ingredients on the pet food label because they are not necessarily giving you the best diet for that puppy to begin with. Again, if any of the above "bad" ingredients are listed on your current brand of dog food, switch the puppies food immediately but gradually over a week's period of time.