Kids & Pets - Living Happy & Safe Together

Being involved in rescue for many years, it is astounding and sad when I see perfect and happy puppies/adult dogs surrendered because of one bad choice the pet made one day - they bit or nipped at a child. Although it's human nature to rid oneself of a "bad" thing in the home where you should feel most secure and safe, however, I question whether this is a fair determination to actually surrendering a pet solely on the grounds of one "nip".

I have personally heard every reason and excuse why a pet has landed itself in a shelter or rescue program and one, in particular, that really upsets me is when the owner reports that their dog has either became aggressive or has actually "nipped" their child and now has labeled that dog as a "biter". Certainly it is understandable that any parent should and want to protect their child(ren) from harm but the key underlying question is: why did that pet do that in the first place? Although some people may find that one "nip" is enough to surrender a pet, I always wonder if the pet is really getting a fair "shake" when a parent was actually not in the room to witness such an attack. I further speculate whether at any time, prior to the child being attacked, whether the owner spent any time with that pet to acclimate it with young children to begin with? So, the real question is -Is the child the actual victim or is the pet?

Now, it may be possible that some personality traits in certain breeds may have them susceptible of being "nippy"; however, I am a firm believer it's the way you care and handle your pet, especially right from the start. A responsible owner will not only provide a lot of love, but proper, continuous and positive training to ensure the pet respect all humans, big and small. Same goes for raising and teaching children that are around pets.

There is no question that when you mix young children and pets together, BOTH need to learn respect of one another. An animal is an animal and although not as intelligent as a human, a pet does know when to defend itself. Young children, specifically, can have a tendency to pull ears, tails, and even hit pets. A parent should never allow or easily dismiss this behavior. Because young children do not know what's right from wrong or consequences of their behavior until later in life, to a pet that may be tormented by such a child, is usually why and when a pet may "nip". Basically, it's a dog's way of saying "leave me alone - I don't want to be bothered". Because a dog can not voice their feelings, they will act out their feelings and it’s up to the owner to know and see the signs or signals of a pet feeling uncomfortable or threatened to avoid such conflicts or harm.

Since some owners do not see it this way and immediately want the pet out of the home, in reality, this is not the pet's fault all the time, but actually the owner's (or previous owner should you have just adopted a dog and have no history on it at all). Although many reliable shelters and rescues will disclose to adopting pet owners whether a dog has the ability and patience to live with a child, sometimes it's not. It's up to the current owner to frequently provide positive training sessions with their dog. Same goes for when a pet shows signs of aggressiveness toward other humans when people are around the pet's owner. Dogs may become jealous and/or territorial and when signs of this happen, it is highly suggested to consult with a trainer or behaviorist. Unfortunately, some owners who do not like this behavior may in fact, be reinforcing it unknowingly. Pets should be of sound mind when children are present or at the very least, supervised very closely.

Here are some behavioral tests and further suggestions to helping pets and children coincide together in a safe and happy manner, especially for expecting parents:

• If you have a pet that has been living with you first, start taking steps to have that pet get familiar with having things that a young child will do eventually. This includes putting your hands in the dog's food or water, on occasion, when the dog is eating to see if there is any food aggression issues. Same applies to when a dog has toys and treats near him/her.


• Teach your dog to play "nice". Do not reinforce any aggressive or playing behavior with the dog and his/her toys.


• While your dog is eating, pet your dog on the head, backside and pull gentle on the dog's tail or ears to see if there is any reaction to this. If the dog continues to eat without any issues, this is a good sign of being tolerant to you being in its space. Any growling or negative behavior should be consulted with a licensed trainer.


• Put your face near the pet like if you are giving kisses. Children have a tendency to do this unknowingly. Any signs of showing teeth or growling should be consulted with a licensed trainer.


• Do not reinforce that the dog "runs the house". When a dog feels superior over its owners and requires all your free attention, you may find it extremely difficult to have both baby and pet in the home since the baby will then require all your attention when it arrives. A dog should know when enough is enough. Make sure your pet knows your tone of commands and that you are the master of his/her domain.


• Get at eye level with your pet; laying on the floor, crawling on the floor, etc... See if your pet has any change of behavior such as a higher energy level, trying to knock you over, etc... Remember, your baby will be crawling on the floors that your pet walks about so get your pet accustomed to this.


• Make sure your pet knows how to take food out of your hands "gently". Unknowing toodlers and young children have a habit of walking around with their treats in their hand and handing them over to a pet. A dog with no manners or aggresive with food, may nip a child while trying to take the food out of the baby's hand.

If you feel uncomfortable with doing any of the "tests" suggested above, you may be at a level that you do not trust your pet. Just remember that a properly trained dog that is happy, content, well socialized and adjusted will certainly be accepting of a baby; it just up to you to then teach the child to respect and be nice to the pet.

Just consult with a licensed dog trainer to assist you with behavioral testing should any issues arise so a modification training plan can be given to ensure that your "four legged baby" starts to acclimate itself with a little two legged baby running around as well.

Puppy Care Basics

Puppies are so cute and loveable, they can melt just about anyones heart. However, taking on the role of being a puppy parent can be a tough job. Remember, they are living, breathing creatures and it's your job to ensure they grow up healthy, happy and well socialized little animals.

First things first. When you purchase or adopt your puppy, make sure that puppy is over at least 7-8 weeks of age. If someone is trying to sell you a puppy 5-6 weeks of age, please reconsider the purchase of this puppy. Although this may be a hard thing to pass up, puppies gather some of the most vital and important socialization skills with their siblings and mother during this time. Also, in many states, it is illegal to sell a puppy under 7 weeks of age. Any so-called breeder selling a puppy so early in age, must be questioned as to whether they truly love their animals and well being of the puppies. For more information, please visit our other articles on Where to Find a Reputable Dog Breeder, or Buyer Beware - Where Not To Purchase a Puppy.

SLEEPY TIME

Puppies, like human infants, will have a tendency to sleep alot. They are growing creatures that require alot of sleep in order to develop properly. Crates provide a great place for puppies to nap and rest as they will soon realize it will be their "den". Just make sure to use either old blankets or towels inside a crate for a few months as accidents are prone to happen. Buying designer beds are not suggested unless they have removable covers for washing. Also, because puppies have a tendency to chew on everything during teething time, it is further suggested to use things that can be discarded without hesitation should they be ruined.

DIET & NUTRITION

Puppies require a well balanced, natural food to help their growing bodies mature. With all the different types of commerical dog foods on the market, it is up to you to research and determine how healthy you want to feed your growning puppy. Although more natural, holistic foods can tend to be a bit more expensive, it is worth every penny! Puppies that are fed a more natural diet have less chances of developing allergies and minor to major health problems when they start to mature. For more information on choosing the right food for your puppy, please visit our other article; Feeding Your Puppy "Right" From the Start.

VETERINARY CARE

When you purchase your puppy or adopt one from a local shelter or rescue, chances are that the puppy has already had a visit to a vet for their first series of shots and check up. However, request from the seller the medical history on the puppy, should one not be given. This list will include information such as the name of the veterinarian who administered the shots and what type of vaccinations where given. Also, it should be noted whether or not the puppy was fit for sale.

A common schedule of puppy vaccinations & treatments are as follows:

2 - 3 weeks old - Worming
6 - 8 weeks old - 1st DHLPP + Corona + Worming
11 - 12 weeks old - 2nd DHLPP + Corona
15 -16 weeks old - 3rd DHLPP + Corona
16+ weeks - Rabies

It's vitally important that your puppy get all the above shots to protect him or her from potentially fatal diseases. Do not skimp on any of the puppy's vaccinations. You may think that it's only one that is missed but missing one can be fatel. Distemper and Parvo are the #1 killers of puppies and therefore, critical for a puppy to be fully vaccinated according to schedule. Your choosen veterinarian will gladly explain this all to you once you make your first initial visit with him/her.

Should your puppy ever experience symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, dry hacking , restlessness and/or being lethargic, please visit your local vet immediately!

HOUSEBREAKING

There is no doubt about it - this is probably going to be one of the most trying phases of owning a puppy. Just keep consistant and stay patient! For successful tips and tricks to make housebreaking easier for you, please read our article "Puppy Housebreaking Tips".

PLAY TIME

Having toys for your puppy is necessary. They are not only fun to play with, but it will keep your puppy occupied and relieve any anxiety or stress, plus help with the tendency to chew on things when they are going through the "teething process".

With so many dog toys on the market, choose your puppy's toys carefully. Although some companies may market their toy as "fun", they can potentially not be as safe, especially when a puppy is left unsupervised.

Here are a few suggestions on choosing the right kind of dog toy for your puppy:

• Rubber Toys - These toys are great, especially for puppies since they are more durable. However, be careful of thin latex toys. These toys can be destroyed very easily and your puppy can swallow small rubber pieces. Kong toys, specifically, are especially fun and safe because they can relatively be chewed on without being destroyed. Also, you can further mentally stimulate your puppy's interest to this toy by placing treats inside. Another great alternative is smearing peanut butter inside this toy. Most puppies (and dogs) go crazy over peanut butter (and it's safe & healthy for them to eat too!)
• Rawhides - We are not big advocates of rawhides, nor suggest them. Although this was and still is a common "treat" for dogs, rawhides can be easily broken into large pieces and swallowed; potentially choking the puppy or these pieces being lodged in the intestines. Also, rawhides that are produced and made outside of the USA, (should you still decide to offer this to you puppy), is HIGHLY NOT SUGGESTED. Unfortunatley, the process of which rawhide is produced in other countries are not monitored closely and regulated for chemicals & additives. Look at the packaging!
• Natural Chews & Bones - There is a great selection of natural chews & bones you can give to your puppy or dog that will provide hours of enjoyment. As with any type of treat or toy, close supervision is always suggested but when choosing a chew (or bone), make sure they are produced in the USA. We highly suggest Merrick Dog Chews
• Plush Toys - Plush toys are great, especially when "squeakers" are inside. The noises they produce will certainly entertain your puppy or dog, however, if your puppy is not closely supervised or will be, it is not suggested for these to be given. All "soft toys" can easily be destroyed, thus enabling your puppy to choke or to get sick, should they swallow pieces. If you choose to give your puppy (or dog) plush toys, make sure to supervise them at all times.
• Edible Nylabones & Greenies - We are not keen in giving these toys/treats to puppies nor dogs. We have heard reports of these breaking off into large pieces and when swallowed, puppies (and dogs) were having a hard time digesting these properly.
• Hurleys & Hucks - These toys are simply indestructible and loved by many! Made from Zogoflex, an extremely pliable & one-of-a-kind material that is made in the USA, these toy are guaranteed to withstand the most powerful chewers and provide hours of enjoyment.
• Balls & Frisbees - Many puppies and adult dogs love these types of toys as they can be thrown and retrieved, especially in large backyards or parks.
• Rope Toys - These toys are also great for cleaning your puppy's and dog's teeth while providing hours of enjoyment. However, once the rope starts to fray, it is suggested to throw it out immediately.

Overall, use common sense with selecting dog toys and always supervise your pet when it's playing with them. Kongs, Hurley's and Huck's are best suggested while your puppy or dog is in a crate and can not be supervised.

BE A SOCIAL BUTTERFLY

Once your puppy is up to date on all it's shots, start going out as a team to public places. A well socialized puppy will mature into a more well behaved pet. It is highly suggested to start your puppy in a "Puppy Kindergarden" or Social Class. This is where your puppy will enjoy approximately an hour of supervised playtime with other puppies and learning important social skills around other dogs. You may also enjoy finding a pet or specific breed meet up group in your local area! Visit Meetup.com and enter your zip code to see all the available types of meet up groups in your area that involve pets!

TRAINING CLASSES

Enrolling your puppy in a basic obedience training class is highly suggested. This is where you will learn important tips and tricks on helping your pet be a more well mannered animal in and outside of your home. Contact your local veterinarian for a referral should you not know where to go.

PUPPY LOVE!

This is probably the easiest part of taking care of a puppy. You just can't help to snuggle, play and rub that little soft belly! However, love is not just about playing and cuddling. Making sure that your puppy gets everything he/she needs to be safe, happy and healthy is the most important things to being a parent to a pet. Show your love by being a responsible puppy parent because the love you'll get back will be incredible.

Puppy Basics - Feeding Your Baby "Right" From the Start

If you are new to owning your first puppy, you can feel as overwhelmed as a new parent giving birth to a newborn baby. What and when to feed your little one can be a little confusing since we know you want the best for your puppy and want to make sure they are getting the proper amount of food. With so many brands of pet food out there claiming to be "healthy" and "all natural", it is up to you as the consumer and your puppy's new parent to make wise and smart decisions, especially on your puppy's future dietary needs.

Here are a few suggestions what and when to feed your new puppy:

• Feed your puppy a wholesome, natural, holistic diet from the start. Although these foods can tend to be more expensive, it will be best for your puppy in the long run in regards to health and help promote longivity. If the breeder has given you a specific food, please read the ingredients. Believe it or not, a breeder can send home a healthy new puppy with the most unhealthiest of dog foods. For more information on choosing a great dog food, please read our other post on Dog Foods Are Not Made Equally
• If switching your puppy's food to a more natural and healthy diet from what the breeder gave you, do it gradually in order not to upset your puppy's tender stomach. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 of the new brand and 3/4 of the old brand. Do this for 3 days and then do 1/2 and 1/2 for another few days until you have reached a whole feeding of the new brand.
• Soften puppy food with a little warm water. Not only will it draw out the flavor of the dry food and create a gravy, it will also aid in digestion. Also, since puppies gums can be a little tender during the teething phase, it will be more comforting to the puppy while eating.
• Provide fresh, clean water at all times. Natural spring bottled water or filtered tap water should be used.
• Start your puppy on 3 feedings a day (morning, afternoon & night) and stay consistant with the feeding times. Should your puppy be picky or not eating, leave the food down for at least 20-30 minutes. If your puppy does not eat it, pick it up, throw it out (never re-use food that has been moisten with water or canned food as it can spoil). You can give a treat or two to hold your puppy over until the next scheduled feeding should it not eat.
• If you have a tiny teacup or toy breed puppy, it is highly suggested to make sure your puppy is consistantly eating at least three times a day until it is approximately 6-8 months old. Low blood sugar levels on tiny breed puppies can be fatal until they puppy has matured.
• It is common for a puppy in the first day or two of coming to it's new home not to eat all it's food on all feedings. Please remember, your puppy has to get adjusted to it's surroundings and your routines but just make sure they do get some food in their tiny belly.
• Depending on the breed and size of the puppy, start with the recommended feeding size on all 3 feedings. If you notice your puppy not eating all it's food in the afternoon feeding for about 3-5 days straight (but eats consistantly with the other feedings), start eliminating that afternoon feeding as it's your puppy's way of telling you that they don't need that extra food anymore.
• Don't be afraid to add some flavor to your pet's dry food! You can add broiled chicken and/or turkey, a little non fat yogurt or even cottage cheese. Also, baby food works very well too!
• I am a big advocate on adding natural "canned" food to pet's dry food. Although some vets and breeders can tell you that it is not necessary, I believe it is. Just ask youself this question. If you were eating the same food day after day, wouldn't you get tired of it? Also, since dry food is cooked at very high tempatures during the production process, adding a little bit of a good quality canned food adds more nutrients and vitamins to your dog's diet that the dog food can lack a bit. Don't feed the whole can at one. Simply just add a teaspoon or tablespoon for some variety!
• Don't be surprised if you choose a food and your pet doesn't seem to care for. Just like humans, pets do have a sense for taste and may not like the brand you picked. Simply find one that he/she loves and stick to it.
• Once your puppy starts to mature (and depending on the breed/size), you may want to consider buying a raised feeder. Larger breeds will tend to find eating from a raised feeder a bit more comfortable. It has also been known to help in digestion when pets are eating at "their level".

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:

• Do not feed a dog before or after any "hard" playtime. Let their stomach settle down a bit to avoid vomiting or in larger breeds, a condition called "bloat".
• "Free feeding" or simply leaving dry food for your dog at all times is not recommended. It has been known to cause obesity in dogs. Stick to scheduled feeeding times.
• Always feed a pet at least twice a day (once in the morning and then early evening). If the recommended feeding is 2 cups a day, split the feeding in half. A dog with an empty stomach can actually start to vomit a white/yellowish foam (bile) which makes the dog feel weak/sick. When a dog's stomach is empty or not feeling well, they will have the tendency to want to eat grass.
• Never feed your puppy or adult dog chocolate, raisins, grapes or macadamia nuts. These are poisonous to pets.

We hope these feeding suggestions are useful in raising your new puppy. However, if your puppy is not eating, lethargic or experiencing consistant loose stools, please visit your vet immediately.

Puppy Housebreaking Tips

A puppy, just like a newborn baby, needs lots of care, attention, time, and patience on your part. If you have the misconception that you only have to feed it regularly, take it out frequently and play with it here and there, you have another thing coming. A happy, healthy and well trained puppy all starts with you and your level of patience and care that you will provide in the months to come.

The day you bring home your puppy should be the day you immediately start to train your pet. We don't mean having the dog sit, stay or give paw but we do mean the dreaded "housebreaking". Housebreaking will be one of the most frustrating phases of owning your puppy but if you stay consistant with it, you can have your pet housebroken within a few weeks to a few months. Here are a few tips and necessities when training your puppy:

CRATE TRAINING

• Buy a crate! Crates are not bad places (unless you make it one). It will certainly assist you in the housebreaking - we promise! A matter of fact, within a few weeks, your puppy will be enjoying the crate as they will begin to see it as their "house/den". Just note, it will take time for your pet to get adjusted to it and your puppy may cry and whimper. Just stay consistant on a routine with it.
• When you purchase a crate, make sure it will accomodate your pet's size (and your pet can easily turn around in it). If you have a puppy that is anticipated to be at least 3-5 times bigger in size as an adult, we suggest buying a crate that will accomodate your pet as if it was an adult already. Most crates now a days come complete with the "optional" divider included to make the crate smaller in size on the inside for the time being.
• Don't put any expensive bedding in the crate. Our suggestion is to use old towels and blankets as they will be washed excessively due to being soiled frequently until your puppy learns to hold itself.
• NEVER put a puppy in a crate with a collar. Puppies have been known to strangle themselves!
• Since a dog's nature is not to do their "business" where they sleep, your puppy will soon realize how to hold it's bladder (or bowels) in the crate. Do not get discouraged if your puppy does have accidents for the next week or so. You will be washing the bedding frequently and perhaps bathing your puppy from time to time but this is why a crate is essential so the dog learns how to hold itself and help strengthen the bladder muscles.
• NEVER give a puppy the impression that the crate is a "bad" place. Make each visit a positive one. You may even use "treats" to lure or reward them once they volunteerly go in there. Never ever use it as a "time out - you did a bad thing" place. Puppies and dogs associate things to one another. So, if you use the crate as a disciplinary place, you will have a hard time getting them to go in there each and every time.
• A general rule of thumb of how long a puppy can hold itself is for every month it's old, it can hold it for that many hours during "up time". For example, if the dog is 3 months old, it should be able to hold it's bladder for approximately 3 hours while it's not sleeping.
• Do not leave a puppy in a crate for more than 4 hours without being let out to do it's "business" and some playtime. You will find it extremely difficult to housebreak once a puppy gets used to making "messes" in it's crate. Therefore, if you work full time, either make plans to come home everyday for lunch or have a friend/family member or perhaps a pet sitter come over. It is cruel to leave a small, young puppy in a crate for 6-8 hours at a time.
• Put ONE toy in the crate. Our suggestion is to have a rubber toy such as a Kong Binkee in there. Kongs are great as they can be chewed on safely and even stuffed with treats (and peanut butter!). This will definately stimulate your puppy mentally and physically while being left alone. Also, if it does get soiled on, it is easy to clean. We, however, DO NOT recommend plush, soft toys while young puppies are crated. Puppies in crates have "unsupervised" time and therefore, have the time to destroy soft plush toys and potentially eat the "stuffing" or even choke on the squeaker, should they get it out. Therefore, keep a safe but fun toy in the crate at all times.
• Do not place a crate near any electrical outlets that have electrical cords dangling from them. A bored puppy can easily find a dangling electrial cord as a toy and potential get it in it's crate to chew on thus causing the puppy to get an electrical shock.
• Place the puppy in it's crate while you go to bed. A young puppy should not be sleeping in your bed just yet (should you decide to do that). However, you may find it more soothing, for you and the puppy, to place the crate "near" your bed. Putting the puppy's crate in another room may cause the puppy to cry for lengths of time and as such, you not being able to sleep a restful night's sleep. A puppy that can see, smell and hear you will be more comforted, especially that it still needs to adjust to it's new home and surroundings.
• What goes in, must come out. Therefore, do not put water in the pet's crate during sleeping hours. A puppy's water can be taken away at 9-10pm. Also, if your puppy is in a crate for small intervals, having access to water is not necessary either. Your puppy can easily eat and drink when they are out of the crate and while you have the time to take it out to relieve itself.
• Never let a puppy's paws touch the ground when taking them out of the crate for the first few weeks. Pick up your puppy and take directly outside to avoid any accidents to the backdoor.

HOUSEBREAKING OUTSIDE OF THE CRATE

Once your puppy has learned the ability to hold itself in the crate, it does not mean your puppy is housebroken. You have just only hurdled over one small leap. Here are a few more suggestions to help you get closer to housebreaking your puppy successfully:

• Once you have just carried your puppy from the crate to outside, make and keep one word that you will consistantly use frequently everyday (i.e. "do business", "do potty", or "do pee-pee"). Say your choosen command over and over again until the puppy does what it's suppose to do and reward him/her with a favorite treat. Just make sure it has eliminated itself completely and then bring them inside.
• We do not recommend keeping a puppy outside for playtime after it has eliminated itself completely. The trick is to have the puppy only associate the "outside" as a bathroom area for right now.
• DO NOT give a puppy free roam of the house! This is the most important and crucial step in housebreaking your puppy successfully. If your puppy has mastered holding itself in a small, confined area (it's crate), giving a puppy free roam of the house or even a large room will give them plenty of opportunity to have accidents, especially if you can not watch your puppy's every move. Start the puppy's "privledged" area off small. A good place would be gating off a kitchen area where your puppy can eat, play, etc.. Also, if your puppy has an occassional accident, it would be easy to clean up as well.
• Your puppy's every moment outside of the crate should be supervised closely. The last thing you want is for your puppy to have a small accident and you not even seeing it. Unseen accidents that have not been cleaned properly will just give your puppy the thought that it can go there again. Canines have the instinct to go in the same place as this is where they smell their marking. Therefore, do not allow your pet the opportunity to do so in your house!
• If you see your puppy sniffing the floor or just moving in a pacing motion, take your puppy outside immediately and say your choosen command word until it has done their business. Again, reward them for a "job well done!". Just remember, you will be doing this SEVERAL times a day!
• Puppies should be let outside to do their business approximately 10-20 minutes after each meal, during playtimes, and before they go to bed. Just make sure, again, that they are let out immediately (without their paws touching the floor) after nap time or when you immediately wake up.
• Should your puppy have an accident in the house, do not use regular household cleaners as they will not destroy the enzymes in urine and feces. Although you can spray the area with a regular cleaner or fabric refreshing spray, to a dog's nose, they will still smell urine! A good product to kill the scent and enzymes is using Natures Miracle or a simple vinegar/water solution.
• If your puppy does have an accident in the house that you did not see with your own eyes (even though the evidence is right there), DO NOT discipline your puppy. It is actually your own fault that you were not there to "correct" the behavior. Usually a puppy will give you a few seconds of "signals" that they are about to go. So, therefore, just clean it up and and continue on. A puppy's attention span is like a baby's and will not know what or why they are in trouble. Catching the behavior or simply not giving your puppy the opportunity to make a "mess" will strengthen the association of the "outside" as the bathroom area making housebreaking more successful.
• Be prepared to be accident-free for a few days or a few weeks and then find your puppy just having an accident. This is normal. Just stay consistant and don't get discouraged. The little "light bulb" in their brain will go back on, as we say.
• If you can not watch your puppy (you have to take a shower, clean the house, etc..), use the crate! The crate is also a great way to give your puppy some "down time" for a nap.

OTHER HOUSEBREAKING TIPS

If you live in an apartment and do not have your own backyard, housebreaking will become a little more difficult as you don't have the ability to just open up the backdoor and have your own yard. Therefore, here are some suggestions that are useful, especially if you have a smaller breed:

• Puppy Pads - These are disposable pads that are just placed on the floor for your pet to eliminate on. Many people put them in a laundry area, kitchen or bathroom. Because many brands are "pre-scented" to lure your pet to go on them, housebreaking can be quite easy.
• Pet a Potty - This is a great product, especially if you live in a condo or an apartment. They come in many sizes from tiny to XXXL to accomodate the smallest to larger of breeds. Gives your pet a place to eliminate itself anywhere, even if you don't have grass! Perfect for balconys or terraces.

We hope you find some or all of our suggestions useful. If you feel that you have done all of the above (and then some) and your puppy is still having consistant accidents in your home, please make an appointment for your puppy to be checked by a vet immediately. Your puppy may be experiencing a medical issue such as a bladder infection.