Puppy Care Basics

Puppies are so cute and loveable, they can melt just about anyones heart. However, taking on the role of being a puppy parent can be a tough job. Remember, they are living, breathing creatures and it's your job to ensure they grow up healthy, happy and well socialized little animals.

First things first. When you purchase or adopt your puppy, make sure that puppy is over at least 7-8 weeks of age. If someone is trying to sell you a puppy 5-6 weeks of age, please reconsider the purchase of this puppy. Although this may be a hard thing to pass up, puppies gather some of the most vital and important socialization skills with their siblings and mother during this time. Also, in many states, it is illegal to sell a puppy under 7 weeks of age. Any so-called breeder selling a puppy so early in age, must be questioned as to whether they truly love their animals and well being of the puppies. For more information, please visit our other articles on Where to Find a Reputable Dog Breeder, or Buyer Beware - Where Not To Purchase a Puppy.

SLEEPY TIME

Puppies, like human infants, will have a tendency to sleep alot. They are growing creatures that require alot of sleep in order to develop properly. Crates provide a great place for puppies to nap and rest as they will soon realize it will be their "den". Just make sure to use either old blankets or towels inside a crate for a few months as accidents are prone to happen. Buying designer beds are not suggested unless they have removable covers for washing. Also, because puppies have a tendency to chew on everything during teething time, it is further suggested to use things that can be discarded without hesitation should they be ruined.

DIET & NUTRITION

Puppies require a well balanced, natural food to help their growing bodies mature. With all the different types of commerical dog foods on the market, it is up to you to research and determine how healthy you want to feed your growning puppy. Although more natural, holistic foods can tend to be a bit more expensive, it is worth every penny! Puppies that are fed a more natural diet have less chances of developing allergies and minor to major health problems when they start to mature. For more information on choosing the right food for your puppy, please visit our other article; Feeding Your Puppy "Right" From the Start.

VETERINARY CARE

When you purchase your puppy or adopt one from a local shelter or rescue, chances are that the puppy has already had a visit to a vet for their first series of shots and check up. However, request from the seller the medical history on the puppy, should one not be given. This list will include information such as the name of the veterinarian who administered the shots and what type of vaccinations where given. Also, it should be noted whether or not the puppy was fit for sale.

A common schedule of puppy vaccinations & treatments are as follows:

2 - 3 weeks old - Worming
6 - 8 weeks old - 1st DHLPP + Corona + Worming
11 - 12 weeks old - 2nd DHLPP + Corona
15 -16 weeks old - 3rd DHLPP + Corona
16+ weeks - Rabies

It's vitally important that your puppy get all the above shots to protect him or her from potentially fatal diseases. Do not skimp on any of the puppy's vaccinations. You may think that it's only one that is missed but missing one can be fatel. Distemper and Parvo are the #1 killers of puppies and therefore, critical for a puppy to be fully vaccinated according to schedule. Your choosen veterinarian will gladly explain this all to you once you make your first initial visit with him/her.

Should your puppy ever experience symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, dry hacking , restlessness and/or being lethargic, please visit your local vet immediately!

HOUSEBREAKING

There is no doubt about it - this is probably going to be one of the most trying phases of owning a puppy. Just keep consistant and stay patient! For successful tips and tricks to make housebreaking easier for you, please read our article "Puppy Housebreaking Tips".

PLAY TIME

Having toys for your puppy is necessary. They are not only fun to play with, but it will keep your puppy occupied and relieve any anxiety or stress, plus help with the tendency to chew on things when they are going through the "teething process".

With so many dog toys on the market, choose your puppy's toys carefully. Although some companies may market their toy as "fun", they can potentially not be as safe, especially when a puppy is left unsupervised.

Here are a few suggestions on choosing the right kind of dog toy for your puppy:

• Rubber Toys - These toys are great, especially for puppies since they are more durable. However, be careful of thin latex toys. These toys can be destroyed very easily and your puppy can swallow small rubber pieces. Kong toys, specifically, are especially fun and safe because they can relatively be chewed on without being destroyed. Also, you can further mentally stimulate your puppy's interest to this toy by placing treats inside. Another great alternative is smearing peanut butter inside this toy. Most puppies (and dogs) go crazy over peanut butter (and it's safe & healthy for them to eat too!)
• Rawhides - We are not big advocates of rawhides, nor suggest them. Although this was and still is a common "treat" for dogs, rawhides can be easily broken into large pieces and swallowed; potentially choking the puppy or these pieces being lodged in the intestines. Also, rawhides that are produced and made outside of the USA, (should you still decide to offer this to you puppy), is HIGHLY NOT SUGGESTED. Unfortunatley, the process of which rawhide is produced in other countries are not monitored closely and regulated for chemicals & additives. Look at the packaging!
• Natural Chews & Bones - There is a great selection of natural chews & bones you can give to your puppy or dog that will provide hours of enjoyment. As with any type of treat or toy, close supervision is always suggested but when choosing a chew (or bone), make sure they are produced in the USA. We highly suggest Merrick Dog Chews
• Plush Toys - Plush toys are great, especially when "squeakers" are inside. The noises they produce will certainly entertain your puppy or dog, however, if your puppy is not closely supervised or will be, it is not suggested for these to be given. All "soft toys" can easily be destroyed, thus enabling your puppy to choke or to get sick, should they swallow pieces. If you choose to give your puppy (or dog) plush toys, make sure to supervise them at all times.
• Edible Nylabones & Greenies - We are not keen in giving these toys/treats to puppies nor dogs. We have heard reports of these breaking off into large pieces and when swallowed, puppies (and dogs) were having a hard time digesting these properly.
• Hurleys & Hucks - These toys are simply indestructible and loved by many! Made from Zogoflex, an extremely pliable & one-of-a-kind material that is made in the USA, these toy are guaranteed to withstand the most powerful chewers and provide hours of enjoyment.
• Balls & Frisbees - Many puppies and adult dogs love these types of toys as they can be thrown and retrieved, especially in large backyards or parks.
• Rope Toys - These toys are also great for cleaning your puppy's and dog's teeth while providing hours of enjoyment. However, once the rope starts to fray, it is suggested to throw it out immediately.

Overall, use common sense with selecting dog toys and always supervise your pet when it's playing with them. Kongs, Hurley's and Huck's are best suggested while your puppy or dog is in a crate and can not be supervised.

BE A SOCIAL BUTTERFLY

Once your puppy is up to date on all it's shots, start going out as a team to public places. A well socialized puppy will mature into a more well behaved pet. It is highly suggested to start your puppy in a "Puppy Kindergarden" or Social Class. This is where your puppy will enjoy approximately an hour of supervised playtime with other puppies and learning important social skills around other dogs. You may also enjoy finding a pet or specific breed meet up group in your local area! Visit Meetup.com and enter your zip code to see all the available types of meet up groups in your area that involve pets!

TRAINING CLASSES

Enrolling your puppy in a basic obedience training class is highly suggested. This is where you will learn important tips and tricks on helping your pet be a more well mannered animal in and outside of your home. Contact your local veterinarian for a referral should you not know where to go.

PUPPY LOVE!

This is probably the easiest part of taking care of a puppy. You just can't help to snuggle, play and rub that little soft belly! However, love is not just about playing and cuddling. Making sure that your puppy gets everything he/she needs to be safe, happy and healthy is the most important things to being a parent to a pet. Show your love by being a responsible puppy parent because the love you'll get back will be incredible.

Paws To The Rescue!

As we have reported of the fate of dogs that are placed in high kill shelters that are being euthanized by the thousands each day across the country, it's the determination of some special non-kill rescue organizations that truly make a difference, especially to everyone involved.

For the last few weeks, I have been personally volunteering a few hours of my time to a rescue organization called "Paws To The Rescue". Based in Surfside Beach, South Carolina, Paws To The Rescue pulls animals scheduled for euthanasia out of "kill shelters" and gets these pets into a temporary, but safe, foster or boarding facility until they can find other approved "non kill" rescue organizations to take over the task of housing and finding them a great home. Once it is determined what other rescue organizations will participate, Paws To The Rescue then provides the necessary vaccinations prior to the transport, and then finds volunteer drivers so they can coordinate the transportation route to the pet's final rescue organizaton.

The start of this rescue's transport (a.k.a. freedom train) usually begins in South Carolina where Paws To The Rescue is based out of. Between the help of many volunteers who live locally through the route of where the "freedom train" is passing through, each driver only drives for approximately one hour until they meet another transportation driver at a specific meet up location and then pass the dogs along to the next driver. This continues on until the final leg of the transport is at the doors of the rescue organization who will then provide all the necessary and additional care until those dogs are adopted.

So, on a leisurely Sunday afternoon when I get notice that the "freedom train" will be passing through my area, I graciously volunteer a few hours of my time (and gas) to this well organized rescue group. Driving approximately 3-4 dogs at a time, I meet up with the prior driver, take the dogs and then drive usally an hour north of me to another meet up location where I meet another volunteer. As easily as this is, nothing is more rewarding when you are taking part in helping an animal in need, no matter if it's only an hour. Having the opportunity to meet and give some needed love and deserved attention to these sweet souls during a quiet hour drive is just priceless.

If you live in the eastern states of South Carolina to upstate New York and would like more information on becoming a "freedom train" volunteer, please visit their Shelter Home Page or contact Jen Nall directly by email to get on her freedom train call out list. Another great rescue organization looking for volunteer drivers in the same areas is "Get Shelter Pets". You can contact Rhonda Sims by email as well.

Improve Your Dog's Health - Just The Way Nature Intended

Like in the wild, animals hunt and eat fresh foods. There is no adding of artifical flavors, processed ingredients or chemical preservatives which is commonly found in many traditional dry dog foods. Moreover, dogs are not intended to eat grains either but surprisingly, they are found in many dog foods as well. This includes corn, wheat, and oats. Grains are simply not biologically appropriate for our pets. They are only used as "cheap" fillers in the production process. The ingestion of grains and other starchy foods contribute to most, if not all, of the degenerative diseases (cancer, diabetes, etc..) that pets are suffering from commonly now a days. Domestic pets should be getting their carbohydrates in a similar manner as their wild ancestors did. Fresh fruits and vegetables provide a great source of carbohydrates in a more digestible format while fresh meats (either raw or cooked) provide the approprate protein sources, as with natural vitamins and minerals that an animal only needs.

Although the thought of your dog eating fresh, uncooked meat may be repulsive to you, you can always just take the ol' fashion approach....simply making homemade cooked meals for your pet. If that is not an option, here are two suggestions on getting your pet on a natural grain-free, fresh diet (and convenient, to boot!)

• Grandma Lucy's "True" Grain-Free Diet - A nutritionally balanced blend of USDA (cookied) chicken, fruits, vegetables, and herbs. This grain free recipe has no fillers. It is packed with natural human grade ingredients and freeze dried for maximum freshness. Equally add the same amount of water to the size of food measured and let sit for 10 minutes to rehydrate. Contains: USDA Chicken, Potatoes, Flax, Carrots, Celery, Apples, Blueberry, Garlic, Vitamin A, Vitamin D3, Vitamin E, Niacin, Iron, Calcium, Phosphorous, Zinc, Riboflavin, Thiamin, Potassium, Manganese, Chloride, Copper, Magnesium. Also available in Lamb.
• The Honest Kitchen - Features 5 different raw receipes that feature no grains, low carbohydrates and no fillers. It is packed with natural human grade ingredients and freeze dried for maximum freshness.

Both products are sold in our retail location in Red Bank. For further information or to request a sample, please stop in our store!

Having To Say Goodbye - Doing It Right!

Unfortunately, some people may have to experience surrendering a pet to a shelter or rescue because of numerous, heart wrenching reasons. Although it is very upsetting for the owner (or entire family), it is more stressful to the pet. Dogs in nature are pack animals and when his/her pack is split up, dogs become quite confused and will experience some form of anxiety. Whether it is unforeseen circumstances on your part, a pet's behavior that you can't handle or simply finding out you don't have the time and dedication to provide to that pet anymore, the most HUMANE way of doing it is YOU FINDING THE RIGHT place for that pet!

Here are a few suggestions to help you re-home your pet in a safe & loving environment:

• DO NOT drop off your pet at any local shelter! Many municipal shelters are "kill" shelters meaning if that dog is NOT adopted by someone within 3-7 days, it will be euthinized (killed) even if the dog has nothing wrong with it. Because municipal shelters are on "budgets", they only have enough of money to house a dog for a short period of time. Ask shelter staff what their policies are if a dog is not adopted within a period of time! If they tell you that the dog will be killed, WALK OUT WITH THE DOG as the dog truly does not deserve this.
• Many private "non-kill" rescues and shelters are listed on Petfinder.com You can call or email any of the ones in your area for assistance. They will usually ask for a small donation to take the pet from you. However, since they will be housing the dog in a foster home, feeding it and in some cases, getting any or all medical treatments necessary, it is only a small contribution to helping that pet find a good home. Also, private rescues will screen and do all reference checks on all potential adoptees to ensure your pet is placed only the right, loving home.
• If your dog is a pure breed, many breeds have their own rescue organizations and are ran privately by volunteers that know and understand the breed. Simply do an internet search by putting (BREED NAME) RESCUE (YOUR STATE) in the search field to find your local breed rescue.
• Ask family, neighbors or friends if they would like to adopt your pet with a simple phone call. Also, emailing your contacts can work very successfully! Most people now crosspoint emails with their friends and family by a click of a button.
• Make up flyers and post them! It's the ol' fashion way, but can be highly successful!
• Most newspapers offer free classified advertising on anything you are offering for free. Contact your local paper as it can potentially reach thousands of readers in one day.
• Use Craig's List! It's free! Simply click on your state (on the right) and then post in your state's "Community Pet" section and also under the "For Sale - Free Items". It is very effective!

Please note: If you are surrendering your pet because of behavioral issues only, make sure to disclose all information to anyone interested in taking your pet, even if it has nipped or bitten someone. The last thing you would want is to put someone else in jeopardy, especially a child.

Lastly, when surrendering your pet to a stranger, get some background information from that person and do reference checks! Just don't hand over your dog to just anyone. The last thing you would want is to find out that your pet was not being properly cared for or perhaps neglected or abused. It's just not fair to the animal as they simply deserve a second chance. Having your pet live out the rest of their life in a happy and safe environment with someone who is going to appreciate and love them is the best thing you can do when having to say "goodbye".

Puppy Basics - Feeding Your Baby "Right" From the Start

If you are new to owning your first puppy, you can feel as overwhelmed as a new parent giving birth to a newborn baby. What and when to feed your little one can be a little confusing since we know you want the best for your puppy and want to make sure they are getting the proper amount of food. With so many brands of pet food out there claiming to be "healthy" and "all natural", it is up to you as the consumer and your puppy's new parent to make wise and smart decisions, especially on your puppy's future dietary needs.

Here are a few suggestions what and when to feed your new puppy:

• Feed your puppy a wholesome, natural, holistic diet from the start. Although these foods can tend to be more expensive, it will be best for your puppy in the long run in regards to health and help promote longivity. If the breeder has given you a specific food, please read the ingredients. Believe it or not, a breeder can send home a healthy new puppy with the most unhealthiest of dog foods. For more information on choosing a great dog food, please read our other post on Dog Foods Are Not Made Equally
• If switching your puppy's food to a more natural and healthy diet from what the breeder gave you, do it gradually in order not to upset your puppy's tender stomach. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/4 of the new brand and 3/4 of the old brand. Do this for 3 days and then do 1/2 and 1/2 for another few days until you have reached a whole feeding of the new brand.
• Soften puppy food with a little warm water. Not only will it draw out the flavor of the dry food and create a gravy, it will also aid in digestion. Also, since puppies gums can be a little tender during the teething phase, it will be more comforting to the puppy while eating.
• Provide fresh, clean water at all times. Natural spring bottled water or filtered tap water should be used.
• Start your puppy on 3 feedings a day (morning, afternoon & night) and stay consistant with the feeding times. Should your puppy be picky or not eating, leave the food down for at least 20-30 minutes. If your puppy does not eat it, pick it up, throw it out (never re-use food that has been moisten with water or canned food as it can spoil). You can give a treat or two to hold your puppy over until the next scheduled feeding should it not eat.
• If you have a tiny teacup or toy breed puppy, it is highly suggested to make sure your puppy is consistantly eating at least three times a day until it is approximately 6-8 months old. Low blood sugar levels on tiny breed puppies can be fatal until they puppy has matured.
• It is common for a puppy in the first day or two of coming to it's new home not to eat all it's food on all feedings. Please remember, your puppy has to get adjusted to it's surroundings and your routines but just make sure they do get some food in their tiny belly.
• Depending on the breed and size of the puppy, start with the recommended feeding size on all 3 feedings. If you notice your puppy not eating all it's food in the afternoon feeding for about 3-5 days straight (but eats consistantly with the other feedings), start eliminating that afternoon feeding as it's your puppy's way of telling you that they don't need that extra food anymore.
• Don't be afraid to add some flavor to your pet's dry food! You can add broiled chicken and/or turkey, a little non fat yogurt or even cottage cheese. Also, baby food works very well too!
• I am a big advocate on adding natural "canned" food to pet's dry food. Although some vets and breeders can tell you that it is not necessary, I believe it is. Just ask youself this question. If you were eating the same food day after day, wouldn't you get tired of it? Also, since dry food is cooked at very high tempatures during the production process, adding a little bit of a good quality canned food adds more nutrients and vitamins to your dog's diet that the dog food can lack a bit. Don't feed the whole can at one. Simply just add a teaspoon or tablespoon for some variety!
• Don't be surprised if you choose a food and your pet doesn't seem to care for. Just like humans, pets do have a sense for taste and may not like the brand you picked. Simply find one that he/she loves and stick to it.
• Once your puppy starts to mature (and depending on the breed/size), you may want to consider buying a raised feeder. Larger breeds will tend to find eating from a raised feeder a bit more comfortable. It has also been known to help in digestion when pets are eating at "their level".

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:

• Do not feed a dog before or after any "hard" playtime. Let their stomach settle down a bit to avoid vomiting or in larger breeds, a condition called "bloat".
• "Free feeding" or simply leaving dry food for your dog at all times is not recommended. It has been known to cause obesity in dogs. Stick to scheduled feeeding times.
• Always feed a pet at least twice a day (once in the morning and then early evening). If the recommended feeding is 2 cups a day, split the feeding in half. A dog with an empty stomach can actually start to vomit a white/yellowish foam (bile) which makes the dog feel weak/sick. When a dog's stomach is empty or not feeling well, they will have the tendency to want to eat grass.
• Never feed your puppy or adult dog chocolate, raisins, grapes or macadamia nuts. These are poisonous to pets.

We hope these feeding suggestions are useful in raising your new puppy. However, if your puppy is not eating, lethargic or experiencing consistant loose stools, please visit your vet immediately.

Puppy Housebreaking Tips

A puppy, just like a newborn baby, needs lots of care, attention, time, and patience on your part. If you have the misconception that you only have to feed it regularly, take it out frequently and play with it here and there, you have another thing coming. A happy, healthy and well trained puppy all starts with you and your level of patience and care that you will provide in the months to come.

The day you bring home your puppy should be the day you immediately start to train your pet. We don't mean having the dog sit, stay or give paw but we do mean the dreaded "housebreaking". Housebreaking will be one of the most frustrating phases of owning your puppy but if you stay consistant with it, you can have your pet housebroken within a few weeks to a few months. Here are a few tips and necessities when training your puppy:

CRATE TRAINING

• Buy a crate! Crates are not bad places (unless you make it one). It will certainly assist you in the housebreaking - we promise! A matter of fact, within a few weeks, your puppy will be enjoying the crate as they will begin to see it as their "house/den". Just note, it will take time for your pet to get adjusted to it and your puppy may cry and whimper. Just stay consistant on a routine with it.
• When you purchase a crate, make sure it will accomodate your pet's size (and your pet can easily turn around in it). If you have a puppy that is anticipated to be at least 3-5 times bigger in size as an adult, we suggest buying a crate that will accomodate your pet as if it was an adult already. Most crates now a days come complete with the "optional" divider included to make the crate smaller in size on the inside for the time being.
• Don't put any expensive bedding in the crate. Our suggestion is to use old towels and blankets as they will be washed excessively due to being soiled frequently until your puppy learns to hold itself.
• NEVER put a puppy in a crate with a collar. Puppies have been known to strangle themselves!
• Since a dog's nature is not to do their "business" where they sleep, your puppy will soon realize how to hold it's bladder (or bowels) in the crate. Do not get discouraged if your puppy does have accidents for the next week or so. You will be washing the bedding frequently and perhaps bathing your puppy from time to time but this is why a crate is essential so the dog learns how to hold itself and help strengthen the bladder muscles.
• NEVER give a puppy the impression that the crate is a "bad" place. Make each visit a positive one. You may even use "treats" to lure or reward them once they volunteerly go in there. Never ever use it as a "time out - you did a bad thing" place. Puppies and dogs associate things to one another. So, if you use the crate as a disciplinary place, you will have a hard time getting them to go in there each and every time.
• A general rule of thumb of how long a puppy can hold itself is for every month it's old, it can hold it for that many hours during "up time". For example, if the dog is 3 months old, it should be able to hold it's bladder for approximately 3 hours while it's not sleeping.
• Do not leave a puppy in a crate for more than 4 hours without being let out to do it's "business" and some playtime. You will find it extremely difficult to housebreak once a puppy gets used to making "messes" in it's crate. Therefore, if you work full time, either make plans to come home everyday for lunch or have a friend/family member or perhaps a pet sitter come over. It is cruel to leave a small, young puppy in a crate for 6-8 hours at a time.
• Put ONE toy in the crate. Our suggestion is to have a rubber toy such as a Kong Binkee in there. Kongs are great as they can be chewed on safely and even stuffed with treats (and peanut butter!). This will definately stimulate your puppy mentally and physically while being left alone. Also, if it does get soiled on, it is easy to clean. We, however, DO NOT recommend plush, soft toys while young puppies are crated. Puppies in crates have "unsupervised" time and therefore, have the time to destroy soft plush toys and potentially eat the "stuffing" or even choke on the squeaker, should they get it out. Therefore, keep a safe but fun toy in the crate at all times.
• Do not place a crate near any electrical outlets that have electrical cords dangling from them. A bored puppy can easily find a dangling electrial cord as a toy and potential get it in it's crate to chew on thus causing the puppy to get an electrical shock.
• Place the puppy in it's crate while you go to bed. A young puppy should not be sleeping in your bed just yet (should you decide to do that). However, you may find it more soothing, for you and the puppy, to place the crate "near" your bed. Putting the puppy's crate in another room may cause the puppy to cry for lengths of time and as such, you not being able to sleep a restful night's sleep. A puppy that can see, smell and hear you will be more comforted, especially that it still needs to adjust to it's new home and surroundings.
• What goes in, must come out. Therefore, do not put water in the pet's crate during sleeping hours. A puppy's water can be taken away at 9-10pm. Also, if your puppy is in a crate for small intervals, having access to water is not necessary either. Your puppy can easily eat and drink when they are out of the crate and while you have the time to take it out to relieve itself.
• Never let a puppy's paws touch the ground when taking them out of the crate for the first few weeks. Pick up your puppy and take directly outside to avoid any accidents to the backdoor.

HOUSEBREAKING OUTSIDE OF THE CRATE

Once your puppy has learned the ability to hold itself in the crate, it does not mean your puppy is housebroken. You have just only hurdled over one small leap. Here are a few more suggestions to help you get closer to housebreaking your puppy successfully:

• Once you have just carried your puppy from the crate to outside, make and keep one word that you will consistantly use frequently everyday (i.e. "do business", "do potty", or "do pee-pee"). Say your choosen command over and over again until the puppy does what it's suppose to do and reward him/her with a favorite treat. Just make sure it has eliminated itself completely and then bring them inside.
• We do not recommend keeping a puppy outside for playtime after it has eliminated itself completely. The trick is to have the puppy only associate the "outside" as a bathroom area for right now.
• DO NOT give a puppy free roam of the house! This is the most important and crucial step in housebreaking your puppy successfully. If your puppy has mastered holding itself in a small, confined area (it's crate), giving a puppy free roam of the house or even a large room will give them plenty of opportunity to have accidents, especially if you can not watch your puppy's every move. Start the puppy's "privledged" area off small. A good place would be gating off a kitchen area where your puppy can eat, play, etc.. Also, if your puppy has an occassional accident, it would be easy to clean up as well.
• Your puppy's every moment outside of the crate should be supervised closely. The last thing you want is for your puppy to have a small accident and you not even seeing it. Unseen accidents that have not been cleaned properly will just give your puppy the thought that it can go there again. Canines have the instinct to go in the same place as this is where they smell their marking. Therefore, do not allow your pet the opportunity to do so in your house!
• If you see your puppy sniffing the floor or just moving in a pacing motion, take your puppy outside immediately and say your choosen command word until it has done their business. Again, reward them for a "job well done!". Just remember, you will be doing this SEVERAL times a day!
• Puppies should be let outside to do their business approximately 10-20 minutes after each meal, during playtimes, and before they go to bed. Just make sure, again, that they are let out immediately (without their paws touching the floor) after nap time or when you immediately wake up.
• Should your puppy have an accident in the house, do not use regular household cleaners as they will not destroy the enzymes in urine and feces. Although you can spray the area with a regular cleaner or fabric refreshing spray, to a dog's nose, they will still smell urine! A good product to kill the scent and enzymes is using Natures Miracle or a simple vinegar/water solution.
• If your puppy does have an accident in the house that you did not see with your own eyes (even though the evidence is right there), DO NOT discipline your puppy. It is actually your own fault that you were not there to "correct" the behavior. Usually a puppy will give you a few seconds of "signals" that they are about to go. So, therefore, just clean it up and and continue on. A puppy's attention span is like a baby's and will not know what or why they are in trouble. Catching the behavior or simply not giving your puppy the opportunity to make a "mess" will strengthen the association of the "outside" as the bathroom area making housebreaking more successful.
• Be prepared to be accident-free for a few days or a few weeks and then find your puppy just having an accident. This is normal. Just stay consistant and don't get discouraged. The little "light bulb" in their brain will go back on, as we say.
• If you can not watch your puppy (you have to take a shower, clean the house, etc..), use the crate! The crate is also a great way to give your puppy some "down time" for a nap.

OTHER HOUSEBREAKING TIPS

If you live in an apartment and do not have your own backyard, housebreaking will become a little more difficult as you don't have the ability to just open up the backdoor and have your own yard. Therefore, here are some suggestions that are useful, especially if you have a smaller breed:

• Puppy Pads - These are disposable pads that are just placed on the floor for your pet to eliminate on. Many people put them in a laundry area, kitchen or bathroom. Because many brands are "pre-scented" to lure your pet to go on them, housebreaking can be quite easy.
• Pet a Potty - This is a great product, especially if you live in a condo or an apartment. They come in many sizes from tiny to XXXL to accomodate the smallest to larger of breeds. Gives your pet a place to eliminate itself anywhere, even if you don't have grass! Perfect for balconys or terraces.

We hope you find some or all of our suggestions useful. If you feel that you have done all of the above (and then some) and your puppy is still having consistant accidents in your home, please make an appointment for your puppy to be checked by a vet immediately. Your puppy may be experiencing a medical issue such as a bladder infection.